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Unicorn Valley
Routes Sorted
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2016 American Refugee Camp T 
Awesome Ends With Me T 
B52 Chimney T 
Chippy S 
Crack of a Thousand Echoes T 
Dude Biscuit  S 
Guillotine, The S 
Jumping On The Bed S 
Po Damn Democats T 
Prancer S 
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Under The Radar S 
Unicorns Fart Rainbows S 
Unsorted Routes:

Crack of a Thousand Echoes 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Mike Carrington
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 89
Submitted By: Mike Carrington on Jul 5, 2015

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Damien past the crux on the first pitch.

Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The first 50 feet of the route is a little dirty but will clean up with time, but there are some great jams along the way and a first crux, 5.8. Go under the giant car-size chockstone into the tunnel where you can look up at the second squeeze chimney crux, 5.8. You can get some gear in horizontal crack on either side of the chimney as you make your way up. Bring a #6 cam or a Bigbro unless you want to run it out like I did.

The first pitch is about 150 feet to the anchors. The second pitch is the crux of the route and is only about 60 feet long. A wide bottom leads to an offwidth section that I did with my left side in.

Location 

This route is the huge, right-facing dihedral on the far left of the wall with the giant chockstone in it.

Rap 3 times to get down. The second rap is a rope stretcher, so be very careful, and you go over several roofs. So to get to the last rap anchors on the top of the sport routes on Unicorn Valley, you have to swing in to get on the ledge. This swing might be hard for some, so you can also rap down the second pitch and walk climber's left on the huge ledge, under the rock, then walk clockwise around the formation to get back to the base of the climb.

Protection 

Trad gear, bring a #6 Camalot or Bigbro unless you feel comfortable running out the chimney section. Smaller climbers will have an easier time here as they will fit right in the crack. There are bolted anchors.


Photos of Crack of a Thousand Echoes Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The first pitch.
The first pitch.

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