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Crack In The Woods
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Crack In The Woods 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: james Dunn
Page Views: 3,995
Submitted By: john strand on Jun 10, 2008

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Getting up in to the roof about half way up.

Description 

Most people say that NH lacks good crack climbing- this is the exception. A fine hand crack in an overhanging corner. Nice rock.

I'd like to add:
I don't know who these haters are that say NH doesn't have good crack climbs but they are sorely mistaken. That being said, Yes, this is probably the finest crack climb in NH.

Expect perfect jams for most hand sizes all the way with the exception of a couple of Wide openings where you can choose your solution. It's the consistently steep pitch that will wear you down more than any particularly hard moves. There are a number of decent footholds out to the sides of the crack which give you a weapon to fight against the pump as you battle this beautiful beast. -Lee

Location 

It is about in the middle of the crag. You can't miss it. See updated directions in the main crag heading to get there.

Protection 

Cams to 3", a fixed rap/lower is in place.

Edit: Particularly perfect for #1 and #2 camalots. I'd say 3 of each of those and you would be all set though I placed a #4 on the lower pod and I found it convenient. -Lee


Photos of Crack In The Woods Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: What!? that was the easiest solution I could think...
What!? that was the easiest solution I could think...
Rock Climbing Photo: A wider shot of the Me at the top of the climb on ...
A wider shot of the Me at the top of the climb on ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Another view of the awesome roof. Gives you an ide...
BETA PHOTO: Another view of the awesome roof. Gives you an ide...
Rock Climbing Photo: The business section of the Crack in the Woods.
BETA PHOTO: The business section of the Crack in the Woods.
Rock Climbing Photo: Led all on hexes!
Led all on hexes!
Rock Climbing Photo: The crack in the woods, enough said.
The crack in the woods, enough said.
Rock Climbing Photo: pumping through the upper half
pumping through the upper half

Comments on Crack In The Woods Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 28, 2016
By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Apr 13, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Alternate approach, recommended for the spring (don't try crossing the river...it's an easy way to go for a swim): Park at the Albany Covered Bridge Parking. On the north end of the bridge is the beginning of the Nanamocomuck Ski Trail. Take that for approximately 20-30 minutes west, until you see trees on the right, marked with orange paint (don't know who did this.) Follow the markers up until you hit a shallow drainage, and follow this uphill until you hit the cliff band. The Crack in the Woods should be pretty obvious.
-edit- See the updated directions in the main crag heading.
By trundlebum
From: Las Vegas NV
May 25, 2010

Just be very wary of killer, attack beavers on the approach!

Of course this is pretty much a joke as there could be no such beast in the woods of N.H, right?

I wish Jimmy Dunn would step in with a recount of his story.
By USBRIT
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
May 25, 2010

Beaver ..I remember the night well .. About 2am Jimmy banging on my chalet door shouting bring the Jack Russells there is a beaver that just bit me in the backside! I thought yeah right and went back to sleep.. It did happen Jimmy sleeping in a drive way a few chalets down from mine when a beaver came and bit his arse . The Fish and Game department came and captured the Beaver for testing...I think just in case Jimmy had given the beaver rabies.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jun 8, 2010

Classic guys !!!! We can only follow this with the "Bears of Humphreys" and the famous "Tumbling Porcupine" of Whitehorse.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Feb 9, 2016

I saw a porcupine out below Owl's that was so big I thought it was a bear at first. It was as big as a good sized dog. I heard some loud rummaging on the back side of a boulder I was sleeping under so I took my headlamp and gingerly peeked around and it scared the crap out of me. It hid under a cave on the same boulder, which kept me awake for a while wondering if it was rabid and would attack me. I restoked the fire and kept a big stick next to me, haha. Scarier than a bear.
By Mark Bealor Saranac Lake NY
Sep 26, 2016
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Beautiful route, just stunning to look at, and even better to climb. I have a question, no disrespect intended, about the "convenience anchor" located part way up the route. Why is it there?? I attempted an onsite this past weekend and climbed it cleanly to a stance above this anchor. I clipped a pin, and placed a good .75 in a horizontal above. I went up and down several times trying to solve the move above the pin into a hand jam, and finally fell when I went for it. This was the hardest move I encountered on the climb. I finished to a ledge with another crack out a roof-the section above was really dirty, and I lowered off a fixed nut.
I climbed it cleanly above the mid-climb anchor, but I certainly wouldn't say I lead the route free. Where does the climb really end? Seems to me the convenience anchor should be removed, and a proper fixed anchor should be installed where the climb truly ends.
Anyway, yea NH has tons of great crack lines, and this is the best I've been on.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 27, 2016

It is a shit anchor, been there for years. the original clib ended at a tree 9still there?) which sucked a bit.


i agree that the climb should end about 15' higher
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 27, 2016

This year is an extremely dry year. Do you think that extra 15' will be dry enough normally if it was cleaned and an anchor placed up there?
By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 27, 2016

Maybe not, but the tree is dead (see above) so seepage may be less. A couple of wet jams would be exciting though.
By Mark Bealor Saranac Lake NY
Sep 27, 2016
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Thank you for your reply John.

The extra 15' is at a similar grade to the climbing below the current anchor, and it sounds like this was part of the original FA...
By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 28, 2016

Positive it was the original finish. Jimmie always climbed to the top of climbs, in fact this caused a lot of confusion in places like indian Creek. There were no visible slings/anchors, He had topped out and walked off.