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Crack Dream 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 1,532
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 15, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Crack Dream (Lightening Crack)


Climb the obvious zig-zag crack system, mostly hands, which splits the west face of the crag. Gear belay and walk off.


Left side of the west face.


Gear to 3"

Photos of Crack Dream Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Lightning Bolt
BETA PHOTO: The Lightning Bolt

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By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Mar 20, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Both button head anchor bolts at the top are spinners, and the decomposing granite does not promote using a trad anchor. The protection on this route is difficult at best in decomposing granite (not secure). The majority of the crack is flaring; offset cams might work better. Not recommended for a budding trad leader. Might as well solo the damn thing; I definitely wouldn't want to test any of my pieces on it with a fall.

However, the moves are enjoyable, and this is one of the only trad lines in Horseman's Center.
By Rob Selter
From: running springs Ca
Apr 7, 2012

Pro is not that bad. I really don't think it 5.8 after climbing in Josh all winter.
By Eric Orloski
From: High Desert area by New Jack C
Nov 15, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Rock Climbing Photo: Crack dream
Crack dream

There are two new anchors set further back from the button head bolts. The down climb on the backside of the route is necessary since pulling your rope is next to impossible off this route. I agree with the other post about gear being difficult to place. The route is pretty easy but the gear placements on the first half of the route are not very good at all. i managed to use a large hex on the bottom and some nut placements down low. About halfway up there a few good spots that are parallel that take cams nicely or a medium hex. I wouldn't trust falling on my bottom gear placements at all. This a great route to practice tricky gear placing low on route. I wish there was more trad at Apple valley. I need to explore this place more
By TacoDelRio
From: All up in yo bidniss.
Feb 28, 2016

I've climbed this route a dozen times or so now. I don't think the pro is bad, just sparse. First piece of 3 or 4 I place is 20ft or so off the ground.

Pulling the rope can be a pain in the ass. I did not use the new anchors. I don't know much about bolting, but perhaps replacing the old buttonheads with rapp hangers would be nice?

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