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Crack Dealer 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Deidre Burton - 3/96
Page Views: 846
Submitted By: susan peplow on Mar 21, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Just right of Sports Book. Opening moves are tough as you use side pulls and reach high to an undercling. The crux is likely the first few bolts but the fun doesn't end 'til you clip the anchors!


Directly right of "Sports Book". The start and finish of these two routes are kinda close quarters. If someone is on Sports Book, it would be best to wait it out until finished.


7 bolts - shut anchors

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By Hillary Davis
Mar 21, 2007

Crux is fun but it's a 3-move wonder. Most of the route is 5.7 jug and ledge paddling.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jun 9, 2008

Hillary, true that the business is within the first 3 bolts, but it only take one move to make the grade. It may ease on the 1/2 half of the route but if you don't climb .11 you'd likely get shut down on the opening sequences.

Personally, I like this route. I also like that for people trying to break into the grade it's an easy TR set up using Sports Book to the left (the anchors are about 18" apart).

Public Service Announcement: PLEASE USE DRAWS FOR TR's!!!!!!
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 19, 2009

Somewhat of a committing start on greasy feeling footholds. It really lets off higher up. Not classic, but the start is worth a run.

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