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Crack Corner 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,650
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Oct 23, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (53)
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BETA PHOTO: Routes on the far left side of Animal World. Crac...

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  • Description 

    Crack Corner is admittedly an obscure climb that is overshadowed by the several stellar routes on Animal World. That being said, like Old Dihedral, it's a fun climb and worth the attention if you brought your rack up the hill.

    Crack Corner is the second route encountered on the lower cliff when hiking up the trail, immediately to the left of Animal Rights Activist. Look for a right-facing corner with parallel cracks ending at a tree. Climb the cracks and pull through a small bulge about 1/2 way up (crux). The climbing felt a little harder than the 5.7 rating, but the protection is excellent all the way to the top where you can anchor off the tree and boulders. To descend, downclimb the gully immediate to the left of the corner.


    Stoppers, cams up to a #3 or #4 Camalot, and a gear/tree anchor.

    Photos of Crack Corner Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Brian getting it done.
    Brian getting it done.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jules back on the rock, finally!
    Jules back on the rock, finally!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin having fun.
    Kevin having fun.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Crack Corner follows the parallel cracks up the ri...
    BETA PHOTO: Crack Corner follows the parallel cracks up the ri...

    Comments on Crack Corner Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By percious
    From: Bear Creek, CO
    May 1, 2008
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Protection: larger cams near the bottom (2-4 inches) and then one small stopper for the last few feet.
    By Julius Beres
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 3, 2008
    rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    At the bulge, you can get in a #1 or #2 cam before you pull over. The move is fun with good friction stemming and decent hand jams. The rest of the climb is fun and blocky, and much easier (5.5-5.6).
    By R. Wilson
    Jul 20, 2009

    Permanant anchors have been added to the top of this route.
    By DamageVic
    From: Coal Creek Canyon, CO
    Aug 28, 2009
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    OK climb, very convenient for TR'ing 'Triple Play'.
    I used:
    2 #8 Metolius
    1 #7 Metolius
    1 clear Alien
    1 black Alien
    #4, 2 & 1 Lowe Balls (way up high in the roof crack near the end).
    By E Johnson
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 28, 2012

    The dihedral crack turned out to be wider than anticipated and for most of the climb. I'd advise bringing at least 1 if not 2 #4s. Two #3s would have been handy as well. Using my largest piece, a #3, early left me with nothing to protect below and through the bulge. I chose to downclimb and back clean instead of taking the risk.
    By Jason Maki
    Aug 29, 2012
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    Leave the cams at home on this one. It is easily protected with hand to fist-sized hexes and a set of stoppers. Rock quality in the crack is questionable, although there are bomber jams and good edges all the way up.
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    Jul 1, 2014
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    I did not see the comment above about anchors being added, so we used the anchor on Triple Play.
    By Mason Roberts
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 27, 2016
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    For the beginning trad leader, if no one is looking to get on Triple Play, there are a couple of bolts that you can clip on the way up to supplement your placements.
    By Larry Shaw 1
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 14, 2017

    This felt a touch harder and funner than Old Dihedral. I brought a rack to 3" and felt fine, but I could see a few places for some larger gear. The left face was a bit scaly in places probably from not seeing too much traffic.

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