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Crack Climbing (Reopened, but unmoderated, post at own risk)
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Dec 31, 2008
John Langston wrote:
Lets say you've got a regular partner but you go ahead and climb with someone else. Should you avoid letting your regular partner know? Should you invite the new partner to climb with the two of you? Do you have any strategies for efficiently climbing in a party of three?



Have the leader trail a second rope and fix it to the anchor then one of the other climbers self belays with a mini traxion while the last climber is belayed by the leader. I've only done it a couple of time but it seems to work really well on multi pitch routes. I know someone who did this on the Scenic Cruise.
Christopher Jones
From Denver, Colorado
Joined Jan 31, 2005
695 points
Jan 1, 2009
Let's get the balls rolling.

Tony Bubb wrote:
Anyone here going to admit to having experience stacking pieces...


Tony, in your experience, what happens if you bust a nut while stacking pieces? Is the weakest link removed, or do you work it? I bet things can get messy, and compromise the stability of the other pieces. Have you figured this out mathmatically yet?
Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From Vegas
Joined May 25, 2005
1,315 points
Jan 1, 2009
Gigette Miller wrote:
Have you figured this out mathmatically yet?

Or conducted a thorough Failure Analysis?
Tested pieces to destruction? (Wanna see the Youtube link for that one.)
Tested pieces to 50% strength rating?
Performed hang and pull tests?
Compared domestic and foreign gear?
Stacked sheathed with unsheathed tools?
Charted respective friction coefficients?
Compared cleaning and removal with multiple pieces?
Shawn Mitchell
From Broomfield
Joined Mar 4, 2008
0 points
Jan 1, 2009
Gigette Miller wrote:
Tony, in your experience, what happens if you bust a nut while stacking pieces?


I never claimed or admitted to stacking pieces. You'll have to ask an aid-climber. They may have additional observations as well, about climbing with parties of 3 and short-fixing and all.
Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
21,695 points
Jan 2, 2009
Back in the day, when I was young, I had a big rack consisting of rigid pitons...I could nail cracks all day long.

But when you get older, the pro becomes more passive and it just isn't as easy to place.
Lee Smith
Joined Sep 5, 2003
615 points
Jan 5, 2009
Lee Smith wrote:
Back in the day, when I was young, I had a big rack consisting of rigid pitons...I could nail cracks all day long. But when you get older, the pro becomes more passive and it just isn't as easy to place.


So what are you saying Lee? That you'd rather go sailing? Is that your boat in the background:

mountainproject.com/v/tony_bub...
Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
21,695 points
Jan 7, 2009
No sailing for me. I don't like seafood. I was actually trying to kill the thread but it didn't work. Lee Smith
Joined Sep 5, 2003
615 points
Aug 2, 2009
Sorry Lee, I just can't let you kill this classic. I mean, so what if it gets polished like the first pitch of the Bastille Crack? It's still super-fun! Besides, I was thinkin' of it the other day as I was bleedin' all over Chockstone; you know, markin' my territory. For me, as it goes, I like my cracks bloody! jcntrl
From Smoulder, CO
Joined Jun 27, 2008
0 points
Aug 3, 2009
eeeeewwwww Micahisaac
From Longmont, CO
Joined Apr 4, 2006
20 points
Oct 27, 2012
wide for life it's a telling style ... keeps yer hart true
Rock Climbing Photo: keeping it real
keeping it real
Devin Fin
From DURANGO
Joined Jan 14, 2010
2,880 points
Oct 27, 2012
I've never been in a crack before, but I've got the gear just waiting to be used. If someone wants to show me how to do it, I'd really appreciate it.
I'm glad this thread is back.
ChristopherAust
From Ohio
Joined Jul 28, 2012
15 points
Oct 27, 2012
I love stuffing my mits deep inside a nice smooth often polished crack however of I can't find a hand sized crack just getting my ballnutz in a thin crack usually keeps me happy Martin Harris
Joined Jan 3, 2016
95 points
Oct 27, 2012
Sometimes staying in a crack too long will shred my skin. At this point I like to get out and transition onto the face Daniel Winder
Joined Jul 13, 2009
50 points
Oct 27, 2012
John Marsella wrote:
A some point, you may find a crack route you really like, and it becomes your only crack route.

Fairy tails.
The reality is that you get tired of driving around looking for FA's and you settle in.
Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
21,695 points
Oct 29, 2012
Is that River Rock? Same grain to my eye.

I like this, how you say, clack climbing?
Colonel Mustard
From Sacramento, CA
Joined Sep 13, 2005
1,055 points
Oct 29, 2012
johnnyrig wrote:
Does this crack make my hand look small?

Nah... the tiny size of your tiny little hand makes your tiny little hand look small. (giggle)
Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
21,695 points
Oct 29, 2012
A clear case of penis envy...

Rock Climbing Photo: Big Bros
Big Bros
Brian
From North Kingstown, RI
Joined Sep 27, 2001
465 points
Oct 29, 2012
Lee Smith wrote:
Back in the day, when I was young, I had a big rack consisting of rigid pitons...I could nail cracks all day long. But when you get older, the pro becomes more passive and it just isn't as easy to place.
This thread is awesome, especially Lee's comment.

Sometimes I like passively protecting cracks, and when they pull and I look down at the stuff that slid down to my belayer, I just pray that nothing bad will happen.
Getting all those fancy contraptions involved sometimes takes away from the quick thrill, so occasionally I boulder cracks for a quick top out, and when my partner can't send the problem I still tell them they did a good job.
Forestvonsinkafinger
From Iowa
Joined Mar 6, 2008
2,110 points
Oct 30, 2012
Friends don't let friends climb on crack. rging
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Joined Jul 18, 2011
25 points
Oct 30, 2012
rging wrote:
Friends don't let friends climb on crack.

Lousy wing man you'd be.
Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
21,695 points
Oct 31, 2012
The face is more important than the crack. Now matter how big, smooth, round or long the crack, I'd still rather get on somethin with a perty face. bygones bro. bygones. Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
Joined Aug 15, 2008
40 points
Oct 31, 2012
Brian wrote:
A clear case of penis envy...


haha brilliant.
Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
Joined Aug 15, 2008
40 points
Oct 31, 2012
I think for me getting into the cracks was an aquired taste. I had a hard time commiting to the crack, and generally complained. Now I am reaching a point where I love the movement and the feeling of reaching my hand or fist deep into a crack that just squeezes around it perfectly. Then wedging a foot in, and torquing it real good and tight. Mmmmmm just the though of how it feels to be in a good perfectly sized crack is getting me excited right now. Boots Ylectric
From Chicago IL
Joined Apr 11, 2012
25 points
Oct 31, 2012
Protection is the key to any good crack know your rack and dont use up your gear before the end you may need some protection near the top. Beta is always good from reliable sources, but I have never seen a crack I didnt want to jam. Loyd Wofford III
Joined Feb 9, 2009
30 points


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