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(f) Cocaine Gully
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Crack Babies 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
Page Views: 2,651
Submitted By: Ryan Palo on Oct 30, 2006

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Sticking the crux. Burly climb.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Quite different from the usual 12b at Smith. A powerful, overhanging, bouldery line. Begin up a short series of crimps and underclings to two good incut pockets. A powerful lockoff and pinch right where the overhangs characterizes the crux. An easy mantel follows. This is a very onsightable Smith 12b.


Half way up the left side of the Gully. Directly left of Cocaine crack and right of Quest to Fire. It is the most overhung route in the area.


4 or 5 bolts and a two bolt anchor. Stick clip recommended.

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By Kevin W. Corcoran
Nov 10, 2008

There is a currently a big stick at the base of this route that is long enough to reach the first bolt. I also recommend a stick-clip; the climbing is not very difficult to the first bolt, but the move right off of the ground is a little awkward, and a fall from the bottom might result in a tumble down the hill.

This route is a lot of fun. All of the holds are pretty juggy, but it is steep and sustained, with not-so-great footholds through a lot of it. The crux is really just fighting off the pump.
By Flacker
From: Lander, WY
Oct 4, 2015

I like the description: here's the beta, but it's onsightable
By Ryan Palo
From: Bend, oregon
Oct 5, 2015

Younger Ryan didnt realize move for move descriptions are pretty lame. My bad.
By Daniel Bookless
From: Portland, OR
Apr 19, 2017

Geeeezzzz Ryan tryna blow my pure onsight

Fun route!!! (I didn't send)

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