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Indian Creek
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Slimy Creatures T 

Crack Attack 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jim Bailey Chuck Keller Steve Faulkner Dave Foster Dave Wilson
Page Views: 10,625
Submitted By: Chad Wagner on Apr 14, 2009  with updates from B. L.

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Perfect hand crack. Might as well be a jug haul.


Scramble up to the ledge where this beautiful splitter crack begins. Push past the low roof with tight hands and prepare for one of the best handcracks in the red. Jam for the next 60 feet in the parallel sided crack until you hit the fist and offwidth section but its short lived. Clip the anchors and remind your self that your in the Red.


Walk towards the Fibrulator and pass it staying along the wall. The next line you come across will be Crack Attack. (37.893898, -83.636811)


Multiple Camming units in the hand size and a fist size. This crack doesn't vary much in size so bring at least 4 #2 camalots or equivilent to stretch it thin.

Photos of Crack Attack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: James crushing it
James crushing it
Rock Climbing Photo: So good!
So good!
Rock Climbing Photo: me on lead almost to the top of crack attack, Ed H...
me on lead almost to the top of crack attack, Ed H...
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting wider....
Getting wider....
Rock Climbing Photo: Partner, Matt Inoue. Got some good shots from a co...
Partner, Matt Inoue. Got some good shots from a co...
Rock Climbing Photo: Crack Attack
BETA PHOTO: Crack Attack
Rock Climbing Photo: Sam getting ready to climb Crack Attack
Sam getting ready to climb Crack Attack

Comments on Crack Attack Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 20, 2017
By Chris Prewitt
Apr 28, 2009

On a couple occasions I recall there being a damp section in the middle of the crack around where it doglegs right. Not enough to stay away, but a little more interesting that way.
Excellent splitter. Makes you rethink why this is called Indian Creek Crag.
By cjdrover
From: Watertown, MA
Nov 11, 2009

I don't entirely agree about bringing four #2's... the crack does vary a bit. I was able to safely do it with two #1's, two #2's, and two #3's, plus draws for the anchors.
By cshuey77 shuey
From: Asheviile,nc
May 27, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

one of the best cracks in the south!!
By Peter L K
From: Cincinnati, OH
Jun 7, 2010

I'm curious what this would be graded if it was at the real Indian Creek.
By Matt Glue
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 25, 2010

Awesome climb! Wish it went on forever :) Yea, can be done with 2 each of #1, #2, #3. But the more #2s the better...
By JohnWesely
From: Red River Gorge
Mar 20, 2011

I placed four golds, four reds, two blues, and a green and felt comfortable. You can certainly do with less, but if you are a crack wuss like me, a bigger rack might make you feel more comfortable. Also, I may have broken my foot jamming this thing.
By Kevin DB
Aug 30, 2014

"I'm curious what this would be graded if it was at the real Indian Creek."

Probably 5.10-
By Chad Wagner
Sep 11, 2014

Indian Creek grade would probably stand true at 9+. Its so varied that it may not warrant a 10, and very short for creek standards. And about pro, I soloed it last time I was there so you don't need gear at all. TOOT TOOT, yep that's my own horn. My friends felt good with(camalots) 1-1 3-2 2-3 and 1-3.5 and that's about every 6.5 feet. And they all agreed the top felt hard.
By JackCrockett
Sep 19, 2016

I agree on the 5.9+ grade to Indian Creek standards. It is also pretty short for Indian Creek.

I put a .75 at the base of the crack on a sling, ran out until the possibility for a ground fall, then put a 2. After that I did a 1, one more 2, a 3, and a 4 right at pod before the chains.

So total for me was .75, 2, 1, 2, 3, 4. I think one could do it safely without the 4. Like Indian Creek climbing, you just know all the gear is perfect and the falls are clean. Superb climb.
By Grant Gibson
From: Cincinnati, OH
Apr 7, 2017
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Beautiful splitter. Didn't rack or need any #4s. Got about 3/4 the way up and a jam slipped out. Took about a 20 ft whipper on a #1. As mentioned above placement are bomber.
By Joel Allen
From: La Crosse, WI
Apr 17, 2017
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Doubles from #1-#3 (camalot C4) is enough if you were to place the right ones at the right times and space them out a bit, plan well. That being said, I sewed it up quite nicely (gear was never more than a foot below my feet) with: 2x#1, 4x#2, 2x#3.

Amazing climb, worth every second of the approach even if this was the only climb you did.
By Matt Desenberg
From: North Berwick, ME
May 20, 2017

One of the nicest handcracks east of....anywhere.

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