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Contortionist's Forte T,S 
Crack a Smile T,S 
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Crack a Smile 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Lawrence Stuemke, '94
Fixed Hardware: 1 Lead Other, 2 Lead Bolts, 2 Anchor Bolts [details]
Page Views: 5,275
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Jun 6, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Midway up Crack a Smile.


Stellar mixed line. Rock reminiscent of Vestibule near Psychotomic. Located on the East side of the Catacomb, also across from Gravestone and Mausoleum - and just downhill from Contortionist's Forte. I started from the blocks and flakes, although the crack could be climbed to this same point. Standing on the block one can place a nut to protect the move to the first fixed gear. Climb past four (as of 6/6/04) pieces of fixed gear (leave em) on stellar fun laybacking and locks to a jug. Clip the first bolt. Pull through powerful and thought provoking moves past the two bolts to the anchors. Great line!


As of 6/6/04 there were 4 fixed nuts as well as two bolts above and the 2 anchor bolts. A small/medium stopper protected the moves to the first fixed gear - you may need other supplemental gear.

Photos of Crack a Smile Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Anchor upgraded to all Stainless Steel. Glad to pu...
BETA PHOTO: Anchor upgraded to all Stainless Steel. Glad to pu...
Rock Climbing Photo: The upper face is steep!
The upper face is steep!
Rock Climbing Photo: Rob styling the lower crack....
Rob styling the lower crack....

Comments on Crack a Smile Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Jun 16, 2004

I think those fixed wires have been there a while. Makes this route esentially a sport route, so non-trad climbers should not shy away from this one. One of the better 12's at the Monastary.
By Anonymous Coward
Dec 22, 2004

Crack a Smile - you will when you complete this route! I think it is one of the best routes at the monestery. Nice fingerish crack to some powerful pulls past two bolts - Close to classic!
By climber73
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 8, 2007

Only 2 wires left in the crack as of today. Bring gear to lead.
By Dusty
From: Fort Collins
May 12, 2008

Only one fixed wire left. Don't expect a sport lead. Excellent route.
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Sep 21, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Still only one fixed nut, there are good stances to place gear from though.
By Brian Weinstein
Apr 12, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

A bit too short for four stars but a nice line nonetheless. Start the crack from the ground (instead of high on the blocks) for full value. I found the crux after the first bolt.

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