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Isles Corridor - Left Side
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Crack 4 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R [details]
Page Views: 679
Submitted By: Darshan Ahluwalia on Apr 16, 2006

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This climb ascends small face holds and a sustained left-leaning finger crack. The first 15ft of the climb ascends two sloping shelves. Using crimpers, mantle on to the first shelf and grab the second shelf. From this stance you can place your first pieces of protection. Mantle onto the second shelf to get into the thin crack. The crux is probably the first few moves on the crack. It continues to widen to tight-hands size at the very top and is sustained the whole way. Wish it were longer!


This splitter crack is located in Isles Corridor. Approach the Isles in the Sky crag by scrambling up third and fourth class slab. On the ledge where Bird of Fire is, keep walking left around the wall past Dolphin and Nectar. Scramble up and over the slab on your right to find Isles Corridor. Immediately on your left is a 5.2 crack up the slab, which can be used as a descent from the formation. Alternatively, rap or lower from the slung rock above the routes.

Crack #4 is the thin left-leaning crack on the left, between Grounder and Crack #5.


The first available protection is 15 or 20 feet off the deck. The face moves before the crack are difficult and committing and a fall here would surely result in injury. The first pieces of protection are small but bomber nuts (black and purple Black Diamond). The crux is probably the first few moves on the crack so make sure to place a couple of nuts before attempting it. Take small nuts and small cams (Aliens helpful) up to black Metolius (tight hands).

Photos of Crack 4 Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Crack #4 (5.10c) is on the left. Crack #5 (5.9+) i...
BETA PHOTO: Crack #4 (5.10c) is on the left. Crack #5 (5.9+) i...

Comments on Crack 4 Add Comment
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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 28, 2006
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R

Easy to top rope from rap slings. Wouldn't recommend leading it. Old copperhead down low that would likely not take any real load or fall. The seam takes no gear. Higher the crack does open to 3/4" to 1.5" good finger and lie back but not worth the trouble. Go around the front and do Bird on a Wire instead.
By Ian
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 19, 2008

I almost fell on the copper head after a hold broke on me. The crack is good, but the pro sucks before that!
By Adam Stackhouse
Feb 19, 2008

Would this route benefit from the addition of a bolt?
By Carl A
From: brooklyn, ny
Jan 22, 2009

this route could use a bolt, there are a tough couple of moves before the crack. But I dont know if it would be worth it.
By C Miller
From: CA
Jan 22, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Instead of a bolt how about using a crashpad since the crux is low or simply rig a toprope if not into leading it as is?
By Russ Walling
Jan 22, 2009

Thumbs down on a Bolt....

Thumbs up on fresh head?

Two thumbs up on a crashpad!
By Randy
Oct 14, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

Easily as good as Crack 5 and Crack 6. The unprotected part of the route is 5.10, so it leaves this as a TR or bold lead.
By Richard Shore
Nov 19, 2012

I can't believe some of the above posters called this is a bomb. I do agree with Randy that this is as good as any of the other quality cracks in the corridor though. A TR only for me - I don't trust that tiny fixed head protecting the crux. The upper finger crack/lieback is a treat! Would be a bold lead indeed..

As for the crashpad comment - not exactly a good landing. Big boulders, and the wall slabs out towards the base. I would get a good laugh seeing pads and a team of spotters up there for the lead. Fixed pins are replaced with bolts all the time in Jtree - why not for a manky head?

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