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Crack 3 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tom Gilje, Julie Sheld, 1995
Page Views: 4,610
Submitted By: Tradkelly on Dec 3, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (118)
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BETA PHOTO: Crack 3 (crack 1 Bjornstad). The left-most of the ...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


The direct start is a 15' face of vertical unvarnished sandstone nubs to a short section of unvarnished slab. If led, this is a PG section and a spotter is recommended. The alternate approach is to traverse the lower slab from the blocks at the base of Crack 1.

Another good fingers and thin hands crack, with more surface fractures (varnish has broken off leaving pockets of sandstone beneath) for your feet. This is the 'stickiest' of the three cracks for your feet and not as intense as either Crack 1 or 2. Lead or TR this climb and use the Crack 1 anchors.


Small gear (wires and cams to #1 camalot). Use the Crack 1 anchors (15' traverse at the end of the crack).

Photos of Crack 3 Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve leading Crack 3.
Steve leading Crack 3.
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve Thomas on the crux of Crack 3.
Steve Thomas on the crux of Crack 3.

Comments on Crack 3 Add Comment
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By chris deulen
From: Castle Rock
May 28, 2007

This route has its own anchors.
By Greg D
From: Here
Oct 15, 2009

Cracks 1, 2 and 3 are not even close to vertical.
By Josh Cameron
From: California in my Mind
Jun 12, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

If you've done Crack 1, then give this guy a go. I felt it was slightly harder than the previous. For the upper half, I used small cams from a #1 to #3 Metolius. I liked the nature of this route: slab climbing on small nubins to a thin and inconsistent crack.
By Chris Perkins
From: Buena Vista, Colorado
Oct 18, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This has 3 bolts on the lower section now. Not sure when they were added.
By Mathias
From: Loveland, CO
May 24, 2015

We thought this was a sport route when we started up. The guide reads right to left with very little info, MP left to right. It wasn't easy to tell what we were climbing until we researched later. Anyhow, my GF got up to the 3rd bolt and found, to her surprise, no more bolts. She came down and got some gear to finish it up, but no big stuff. So she had to come down again and just didn't want to go up again. I finished up the last 15 feet or so.

The message to anyone looking to climb this is: It's a TRAD ROUTE. And felt a little stiff for the grade to both of us.
By Benn Lewenstein
Apr 22, 2017

It is hard to consider this a crack climb.

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