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Crabnebula T,S 
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Crabnebula 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 240'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Zeb Jakub, Chris Magness, Dave Weston, 9/12
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 403
Submitted By: chris magness on Nov 25, 2012

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Description 

This line generally follows a dike just right of FOF’s hand crack, is very well protected, and is a good line for a 5.10 leader to push their ability.

It is possible to climb the meat of Crabnebula in one 170’ marathon pitch to a two bolt anchor, then scramble to the rappel tree. Pitching it out allows for better communication in cruxy areas:

P1: A sustained pitch. Make a committing move off the belay to a bolt up and left. Using holds on the arête, follow bolts around a bulge to a horizontal (pin), just right of FOF’s hand crack. Pull another bulge and follow bolts and a dike to a stance on the left (same as FOF). Build a gear anchor. (5.11 a/b) 120’

P2: Follow bolts straight up the slab until the angle eases. Belay at a two bolt anchor or continue up to the tree (5.10b) 100’

Location 

Begin at a small stance 200’ below the access ledge.

Protection 

Bring a few medium sized cams and stoppers for a gear anchor. Many draws, including extendables.


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