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Crabby Appleton Area

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Crabby Appleton T 

Crabby Appleton Area Rock Climbing 


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Location: 36.11947, -115.49096 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,606
Administrators: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: John Wilder on Aug 19, 2007
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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the gully that sits just to the right of Magic Mountain and directly across from Cat in the Hat. It has an east facing wall, which gets sun until mid-morning to noon, depending on the season.

Getting There 

Approach via the Pine Creek trail, cutting left into the wash when the trail forks at the base of Mescalito. Follow the wash until it begins to curve to the right and a gully is visible directly ahead. Find a faint trail skirting the left side of the wash leading into the gully. From here, work your way up the gully to the routes.

Climbing Season

For the Pine Creek Canyon area.

Weather station 3.3 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Crabby Appleton Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Crabby Appleton Area:
Crabby Appleton   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 4 pitches, 550'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Crabby Appleton Area

Featured Route For Crabby Appleton Area
Rock Climbing Photo: The 5.3 start of Crabby Appleton. From here you tr...

Crabby Appleton 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13  Nevada : Red Rock : ... : Crabby Appleton Area
Crabby Appleton is a faint crack system that travels up the right wall of the Crabby Appleton Gully. Start on a large ledge just below a traversing line of huecos. Pitch 1: Climb up and then right along the huecos, eventually gaining a crack heading upward. Ascend the crack to a stance. 130', 5.7 Pitch 2: Climb the crack, pass an intermediate belay stance with a bad bolt, climbing to a better stance with a bolt and a pin. 190', 5.8 Pitch 3: Continue up the crack, following the corner on the left...[more]   Browse More Classics in Nevada

Comments on Crabby Appleton Area Add Comment
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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 10, 2008
If memory serves, the gully appears blocked by an enormous boulder, but it turns out you can climb under the thing and tunnel up to the top. This is a good landmark to know you are in the correct place.
By Jason D. Martin
Oct 10, 2008
Some rocks collapsed into that hole a couple of years ago. You have to go around the outside now...

Jason
By Larry DeAngelo
Administrator
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 10, 2008
One good way to handle the approach is by linking with one of the routes on the Magic Triangle or Community Pillar. For example, climb Magic Triangle and descend the back (south) side. Start at the minor notch that separates the Magic Triangle from the main part of the Community Pillar. A little downclimbing and a short rappel or two will take you right to the starting area of Crabby Appleton.
By jediah porter
Oct 18, 2009
Another approach option, we employed recently: Climb Olive Oil and descend off the back, through the little notch (at the very head of the normal O.O. descent gully) and down that gully to the base of the route. One rappel in the gully just before the start of Crabby Appleton...
By Cunning Linguist
Sep 13, 2011
You can tunnel under the boulders blocking the top of the gully, not tough. Climb up pocketed rock on the right, enjoy the munge, then hang a left and head for daylight. Way easier than it looks. That said this approach is not casual; has 5th class sections, moss, slick rock, bushwhacking, routefinding etc. With packs this approach would be at least 20 minutes longer than Cat in the Hat, probably longer. Slings up there could use replacing, and you may want to rap more than one section depending on conditions.
By Politically Correct Ball
From: From WA to AZ
Apr 11, 2017
Hey, I just climbed something on this wall and don't know what it's called. It *may* have been "Tom Terrific" but the description I've seen doesn't match it 100%.

P1: Start a little up the descent ramp under a lot of dark. There's an obvious crack/flake that terminates at the point another starts (second one is flare/seamed out and doesn't take pro). After a little runout there is a V1 boulder problem and an easy left-slanting ramp leading to overhanging flakes. Pitch terminates at a button head ~140ft.

P2: Go up to a right-facing arch. Lot of moss. Found a bail anchor with 1990s biners, wallnuts, and sling. ~80ft.

P3: Traverse left clipping the 20yr old bail sling and run it out up some super thin/slab to a dish, #1 under the arch, keep traversing for 30ft past the arch then up an obvious crack to the top. This pitch didn't seemed like it had been climbed as I broke a few graham-cracker flakes including one I was pulling on and nearly went for a whoop-de-do (excellent pitch, however). 200ft

I'd give it a star or two (the moss factor prevents me from giving any more). Really good, committing moves with tricky pro.

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