REI Community
West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Are You A God? T,S 
Babes On Harleys T 
Corndog T 
Crab Salad T 
Iron Love T 
Mesopotamia T,S 
Moby Dick S 
Moby Dick (Direct Start) S 
No Name T 
Rowins Andrews 
Tarzan Traverse, The T 
Wild Planet T 
Women On Mopeds T 
Yellow Beard S 
Yellow Jacket T 

Crab Salad 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Terry Andrews
Page Views: 1,138
Submitted By: Christopher Marks on May 24, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Climb the chimney, over both ledges, then either g...

  • This area is designated as Charon MORE INFO >>>
  • Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Chimney up the South Chimney unprotected to ledge and climb the finger crack up to next ledge. Climb directly up the middle of the headwall to bump up the grade to 5.9 or Traverse to far right (east) corner and ascend up good edges with great exposure.


    South chimney/face of crab eyes


    Nuts and cams up to 3

    Comments on Crab Salad Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Craig Childre
    From: Lubbock, Texas
    Jun 13, 2012

    I'm not positive, but I believe this route was identified in the Lohn guidebook as "The Arete" as a 5.7 R. Terry would know more than I. edit: Actually on the other side... I see where this line goes now! My mistake.
    By Eric Klammer
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jan 15, 2015
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X

    Great route that packs quite a variety of climbing into a relatively short distance. Don't expect much of any pro for the chimney to the ledge and the chicken head finale. Easier climbing off the last small sloping ledge but hollow holds (my partner broke off a large piece following) and pro that's already a ways a way makes it exciting. Falling from the last section would not be ideal and you'd probably mess yourself up pretty good.

    Great route though that really packs in the exposure!
    By Jason Baksh
    May 23, 2017

    The Chimney is fun climbing and protected with a small nut and a 1" cam. My climbing partner lead the slab section and found it awesome but run out a bit. The hardest move is gaining the second ledge - using the finger crack directly above the top of the chimney. Traversing far right to gain the sweet edges is also interesting. Def. 5.7R but also fun. A long sling or two may be helpful.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About