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Crescent Crack Buttress
Routes Sorted
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3 Amigos T 
A Kat That Grumps T 
Back to My Roots T 
C.P.O.S. T 
Closet Lycra T 
Crack in the Woods T 
Crank in the Woods S 
Crescent Crack T 
Crescent Crack Direct Variation T 
Final Link T 
Great Chockstone, The T 
Grunting Gringos T 
Hand Jive T 
If Looks Could Kill S 
Interplanetary Voyage T 
Journey to the Moon T 
Kutcorner T 
Lazarus T 
Less Than Zero T 
Lunge or Plunge T 
Mexican Crack T 
Missing Link T 
Multiplicity S 
No Jive Arete S 
Paraplegic Ward T,TR 
Razor's Edge S 
Ross Connection, The T 
Ross Route, The T 
Rotert's Rooter T 
Short Corner T 
Slam, Jam, Thank You Ma'am T 
Unknown left T,TR 
Unknown right S,TR 
Waterslide S 
Who's On First S,TR 


YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: FFA: Steve Hong, Steve Carruthers, Lynn Wheeler 1984
Page Views: 150
Submitted By: ldsclimber on Aug 13, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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turning the corner

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


Classic Piece Of Sh#! is just that A classic that will ever bring up frustrating and grueling memories. The route lies just around the corner to the right of the mega classic Mexican Crack. It starts in a left facing dihedral above a slabby ramp. It's steep, pumpy ,and very sequencial. The lower section climbs an easy crack with juggy flakes to the left. There is a shared bolt with the very cool Less Than Zero. After this point the climbing is in your face. The Crux is a left handed jam with a right hand crimp high in the crack.and move your feet on to a bulge in the crack. Taller guys will be major scrunched and every one will be wiggin out. I've blown it many times here, pulling gear and falling a lot farther than expected Woot! woo! Keep hold of the crimp and slide into another left hand jam. A good stem is to be had witch allows for a moment to collect your thoughts for the move around the arete. Feel for the nubbins and commit to the other face. From here it's smooth sailing to the chains following a finger crack.


2 Green Aliens
2 Yellow Aliens
2 .5 BD
1 .75 BD
1 #1 BD
1 #2 BD
1 #3 BD
1 long sling to decrease rope drag around the arete

Photos of C.P.O.S. Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: james pulling the crux move
james pulling the crux move
Rock Climbing Photo: James Huntsman starting off strong.
James Huntsman starting off strong.

Comments on C.P.O.S. Add Comment
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By bheller
From: SL UT
Apr 14, 2008

Lotsa rotten rock and greasy holds on this route- be careful! Consider clipping the bolts you can reach on the left wall (Less than Zero's bolts) for backups.
By John Steiger
Jun 16, 2008
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Worthwhile route -- varied, burly climbing, well protected. Maybe not worth a full two stars, but I'll give it that to offset Stymingersfink's bomb. Didn't find any loose rock of consequence, and the holds didn't seem greasy to us (despite very warm mid-June temps). Goes into the shade by at least 1pm.

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