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Unsorted Routes:

Cozyhang 10a Variation 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,076
Submitted By: Mike Robinson on Jun 7, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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The route.

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  • Description 

    The gear is great on this variation. The crux is pulling around the bulge and onto the face.


    Instead of going up to the 7+ second pitch A-frame, just stick to the obvious hand crack that is toward the top of the dihedral. Pull around right via hand jams, over the bulge on smeared feet and reach out right to a side pull and a crystal finger jug on the face.


    Wild Country cams size 1-2. Have 3 of them to protect the hand crack that follows just under the highest part of the Cozyhang/Umph Slot dihedral.

    Comments on Cozyhang 10a Variation Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Tom T
    Jun 22, 2008

    Isn't this the same route as Cozy Overhang? It seems like a double entry to me...but I could be wrong.
    By James Beissel
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 16, 2008

    No, not a double entry at all. This pitch takes a direct line out the roof above Owl Ledge.
    By Phil Lauffen
    From: The Bubble
    Apr 28, 2009
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Hard for a 10a? maybe? I could not figure it out for the life of me. I guess I just suck at hand jamming.
    By S. F. Pitman
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 1, 2010
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    This seemed harder than 10a to me. I'm pretty sure that the new guidebook lists this as 10d, but I might be reading it wrong. I am very short (5'6"), and had to use a combination of hand jamming, dyno, and no feet to make it through the crux (which protects very well). The lack of feet made it feel like 10+ to me. Again, I'm short so this may not be true for everyone.
    By Phil Lauffen
    From: The Bubble
    Apr 24, 2010
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Finally got this today. You definitely need to be able to jam if you want to make it. I can't comment on the grade.
    By Martin Harris
    May 9, 2011

    It's 5 fun.
    By Dragin
    Jun 17, 2011
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    I've done this one a couple times...the key is getting your feet in the same diagonal crack you are jamming - I was almost horizontal through the whole crux, but it really didn't seem to difficult, just pumpy.
    By Mike Robinson
    From: Worcester, MA
    Jul 2, 2011

    I am 5'3" so the route is not height dependent....

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