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Claim Jumper Wall
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Claim Jumper S 
Colonial Ear Wax T 
Coyotes in the Henhouse S 
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Public Hanging S 

Coyotes in the Henhouse 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Sam Owings, Tony Egnozzi & Kevin Duck, 1995
Page Views: 6,443
Submitted By: C Miller on May 20, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (144)
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Keli Balo climbs Coyotes in the Henhouse (5.10d), ...


The thin and somewhat reachy start on small edges is the crux, and after the second bolt enjoyable moves on large but somewhat questionable holds lead to the finishing bulge, which is rife with excellent incuts making for a spectacular and enjoyable finish.

A classic of the area and a highly recommeded route for the grade.


Right side of the face between Brewed Awakening and Public Hanging.


8 bolts, sport anchors

Photos of Coyotes in the Henhouse Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The right side of the Claim Jumper Wall.
BETA PHOTO: The right side of the Claim Jumper Wall.
Rock Climbing Photo: Checking it out before checking it off!
Checking it out before checking it off!
Rock Climbing Photo: Another nice rest
Another nice rest
Rock Climbing Photo: Clipping the chains on Coyotes in the Henhouse (5....
Clipping the chains on Coyotes in the Henhouse (5....

Comments on Coyotes in the Henhouse Add Comment
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By David Fogel
From: Lake Forest, CA
Sep 7, 2017

  • (9/7/17) copy from Matthew Navarro
The steel carabiners on top of "coyotes in the Henhouse" are NO GOOD. They are completely eroded from excessive top rope use.

The carabiners are sharp and extremely dangerous to use, EVEN FOR RAPPING!! Please be cautious. I will be back up there in less than a week to replace unless someone else beats me to it. -Mateo (Copy paste from Matthew Navarro) Thanks for the heads up
By Euan Cameron
From: Mammoth Lakes
May 21, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Great route. Technical up to and passing the 1st bolt, and then a great sequence to round the overlap. Fun climbing on big hollow flakes finishes it off.
By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Jun 22, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Holcomb Valley's best? Certainly a candidate.
By Lluis Penalver-Aguila
From: Cambridge, Massachusetts
Sep 7, 2009

Started this one with the low undercling to the crimps above, strenuous to the first bolt, then holds increase in size. Move left before reaching the roof on Public Hanging and continue up on sharp flakes. Rest where you can, the finish is a pull over a small roof.
By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Jul 10, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Did this yesterday again and it's been a long time but I still think this is one of HVP's best. The wonderful athletic moves through the mid-section are extremly satisfying. Boulder problem start.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 5, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Bouldery start may be the crux. This route climbs very nice and has a series of easy boulder problems, with nicely placed blots and rests. Excellent route.
By Phil Esra
May 4, 2014

Plenty of 10d and 11a routes all over HVP that don't have cruxes anywhere near as hard as the start of this one!
By Coon
May 16, 2014

Awesome diverse set of moves that get you up this one. Im surprised the paper thin flakes havent pulled off, they feel like theyre going to break in your hands.
By Cole Paiement
Jun 13, 2016

I can't think of a single 10d sport climb anywhere that I like more than this one. The bolts are all very well placed, the climbing is mostly easy and fun with a few more challenging sequences, and it is long enough to feel full value.

Also, this thing goes on gear. The placements are pretty good, though I didn't protect for about 20ft of the flake section in the middle of the climb as a fall on a cam there would likely have pulled off a hold.

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