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Coyne Crack 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Leonard Coyne 1978
Page Views: 4,888
Submitted By: Zac Robinson on Oct 11, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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Greg on Coyne Crack

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


Short and sweet, this is a steep finger crack visible near the base of the thumb.


From PlumbLine, look up towards the base of the thumb area. It is the obvious fingercrack that starts with a rightward lean and then heads straight up the wall.
An approch pitch up the easy corner will get you to an anchor on a tree at the base of the route. Head up and once you are at the top, you will see anchors to your right.


Mostly Finger sized pieces the entire way. Make sure you have at least doubles of 0.3, 0.4, and 0.5. Stoppers are also handy and a good placement can be found nearly anywhere if you can hold on long enough to use it.

Photos of Coyne Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun finish
Fun finish
Rock Climbing Photo: The upper section. Look like Yosemite?
The upper section. Look like Yosemite?
Rock Climbing Photo: Sean coming up the gorgeous finger locks on the la...
Sean coming up the gorgeous finger locks on the la...
Rock Climbing Photo: This is what the crack looks like from the first g...
This is what the crack looks like from the first g...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down at crux midway up route
Looking down at crux midway up route

Comments on Coyne Crack Add Comment
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By bheller
From: SL UT
May 1, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Apparently there is no correlation between route length and stars awarded. This route is disappointingly short. MINUS AT LEAST ONE STAR IMMEDIATELY!:) This is like a low quality version of Yosemite's Butterballs. It is nice to actually climb a real finger crack in LCC.
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Oct 14, 2011

Stellar splitter. One of the best hard cracks in Little for sure. It is a bit on the short side, but what it lacks in length it compensates for in quality and aesthetics. It is broken down into 2 sections. The 11d crux is the first 10 feet of offset right leaning .5 camalots but once you hit the vertical .3 locks it is SO GOOD! Then you hit a ledge of sorts for a great rest before finishing up on a lower angle section with really good locks and a final cruxy move pulling onto the 5th class slab. A bit of a struggle to get to as it involves some scrambling and then a 5.6 section of climbing to reach the grove of barely thriving shrubs upon which you tie yourself to, but its worth it. A double set of cams from .3 to .5 camalot is great with a nut or two along with a cam in the red c3 size range. Nothing bigger fits. You can rig an anchor with medium nuts or small cams for TR sessions. Rappel down from the S Crack anchors 20 ft up and right from the topout back to the belay bushel. One 60m plenty.
By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 8, 2013

What a great, short route. I recommend belaying at the lower set of scrub oaks (in Spencer's "looking down at crux" picture, you can see them about 30 ft down from the upper belay). The traditional upper belay anchor is a nasty scrub oak hanging stance from old tat, and the oak is about 80% dead. Belaying from the lower set of bushes is much better for the belayer (comfy), the bushes are more robust, there is no rope drag produced by belaying there, and your leader gets a softer catch when they come off at the crux.

The gear beta from others is spot-on. I used two each .3,.4,.5 camalots, an orange metolius and a blue (#1) metolius. Don't bother hanging around to place nuts. However, If you belay at the lower set of bushes per my recommendation, take along a #3 and .75 camalot for that initial section, and a few runners.

The off-fingers section near the beginning is strenuous for about 10 feet, until you get to great tight fingers as the wall gets steeper. The big rest 'ledge' in the middle is nice, and the upper section is considerably easier than the bottom half. Too bad this thing is so short!
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Oct 19, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

A totally awesome climb.

I got on this hoping to push myself since 5.11d is clearly out of my onsight or even single fall range. No, multiple falls were taken. But the great thing about this crack is that it protects well.

A lesson in pain tolerance and endurance (for us mere mortals who are still putzing around in the 5.10 range). I'm not sure the complaints about it being too short are warranted; it was plenty long for me!

A few notes:
1, approach from The Thumb gully, rope up to the base and then haul your stuff up. The ascent over by the rope ladder is tricky, dirty, and difficult with a pack.
2, expect two raps from the S-crack anchors. Maybe we did it wrong, but I found swinging over to the first set of anchors a bit of a gamble. Instead we rapped down to the first grove of trees (full 70m) and then down to the base.
By madskates
From: slc
Dec 1, 2015

Great little finger crack, Linking this with S-Crack and on to S-Direct or Spring Fever make for a great day!
By Tommy O.
Oct 20, 2016

New bolted anchors by the "better" lower tree stance. Can rap to these from the top anchors below S crack with a 70m rope. Two more single raps to get to the ground. Great route.
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
Oct 20, 2016

Who put those in? What kind of bolt/hangers? Are they stainless?
By Brent Barghahn
From: SLC, UT
Oct 30, 2016

Was up here yesterday and saw the bolts - not SS. There is a short chain on one and only a locking biner on the other for the rappel points. I don't mind the bolts keeping wear off the poor trees, but it is a shame proper hardware wasn't installed.

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