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Lankin Dome
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Cowboy Route 

YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b

Type:  Trad, 200'
Original:  YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,060
Submitted By: bob branscomb on Mar 19, 2009

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Janelle descending the 4th class slabs of the Cowb...

  • Close gates after passing through MORE INFO >>>
  • Sticky situation MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    I describe this only because it is the main descent route from Lankin. The rock quality is really quite good, but descending it is like Half Dome without the cables. There has been at least one bad fall down this thing which she walked away from, though very bruised. Mike Lilygren has wedged a block in a crack at the top of the upper part, could use it for a rappel I think, though it wobbles. Otherwise you just have to suck it up and third class it down. It is particularly dangerous in high winds and when it gets wet.
    This is the route on the slabs on the SW corner, above the gap you hike to from Nolan Pocket. From the top, it is a little hard to find. Wander along west from the summit down to some big blocks on the SWW side. Scramble down the south side of the last block. You'll see Mike's wedged block a little below you. Friction down in the direction of the gap below. Wind around and take your time.
    There are two other options for getting off of Lankin. There is a chained rappel route down the Crevasse Route on the East ridge. The top anchor is a bit hard to find from above. There is also a rap route down Red Nations, just east of the summit. Walk along the east ridge about a rope length till above a big block perched above the south face. To its west, look for a two bolt Fixx ring rappel anchor on the edge of a big ledge. Unfortunately, this rappel is not plumb with the next rappel point below. When you are rapping down from the top anchor, look to your right for the two bolt rap anchor, above a small ledge: you have to pendulum over to it. The second rappel ends at the base of the Tree Route. Scramble down the lower part of the Tree Route from here. Recommend 55m ropes for these rappels.


    Ascends/descends the SW corner slab of Lankin, above the gap you reach when approaching from Nolan Pocket. Wind around a lot, look for the easiest way. Really nasty in high winds or when it gets wet. Block wedged in crack at the top, could possibly use for rappel.



    Photos of Cowboy Route Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: This is what 4th class slabs look like,  I guess.
    This is what 4th class slabs look like, I guess.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Zach really working that 4th class for all it can ...
    Zach really working that 4th class for all it can ...

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