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Mt. Chaktar
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Courage of the Fearless Crew 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Scott Ayers & Mike Strassman
Page Views: 828
Submitted By: Bill Lawry on Oct 5, 2009

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Description 

The topo from Bob Kerry's guide is good. I added the PG13 for a short and relatively easy section near the beginning of P2. I listed the route as 5.9+ although there are harder variations given below.

P1: See "Location" below to find our start. We took the "5.6" flaring crack in the middle of the topo for our first short pitch - felt more like hard 5.8 but with good pro. Belay with a bomber stance at the top of the crack at about 30 feet; there is also a handy tree not far to climber's left.

P2: Surmount the ledge a little above. From there, the advertised 5.8+ crux was reasonable to protect but the next "5.6" short leftward traverse felt rather R/X except for a questionably slung horn (PG13). Perhaps there is better pro that I missed; else, this could use one bolt. P2 then continues mostly straight up, running it out on 5.5 terrain occasionally making use of the plates / chickenheads. Top out at a huge ledge at about 50 meters. One may or may not want to use the bolted anchors depending on how one wants to do P3.

P3: The three beginning options all end at the same mid-pitch bolt. This bolt is several feet above an obvious left-leaning flaring crack which is the 'ii' option below. The options are
  • i) climb a short distance up a weakness that trends left ("5.5") and set a belay; then strike out rightward to a horn at the flaring left-leaning crack and then to the "mid-pitch" bolt;
  • ii) trend right to the flaring left-leaning crack ("5.10a"); climb up the flaring crack to the horn and then to the "mid-pitch" bolt, or
  • iii) head almost straight up from the bolted anchors face-climbing past two bolts (move or two at 5.10 b/c?), then right to the horn, and the "mid-pitch" bolt.

Options 'i' and 'ii' are shown on Bob Kerry's topo. Option 'iii' is not but lies between 'i' and 'ii'. We only did option 'iii'.

Continue P3 from the "mid-pitch" bolt by climbing rightward, then a little up on easier terrain, and lastly back left on very easy terrain to the start of P4 at two bolts. Rope drag and protecting the second might be difficult unless one runs this out. Perhaps a medium-small tri-cam in a pocket would protect the second (not sure).

P4: Continue as shown on the topo past several bolts (5.9+) and then up the weakness to a few feet past a small dike and belay at a gear anchor. ~40 meters.

P5: Continue up easy ledges to a two bolt anchor; low 5th class; ~40 meters.

Location 

Traverse / bushwhack leftward around the base of Mt. Chaktar until gaining some elevation for a few minutes. One will pass a ~50 foot tall offwidth crack to get to our start. Our start was the one with two upper variations: first an easy vertical weakness about 25 feet long with the obvious lefthand "5.6" and righthand "5.7" options. See Bob Kerry's topo.

Protection 

Standard rack. Could use a small slider nut to protect against rolling off the ledge near the start of P2. Medium-small tricam (not sure) may be useful for the P3 traverse to protect the second.


Comments on Courage of the Fearless Crew Add Comment
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By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Oct 6, 2009

Thanks to my sister, Joan, for enduring my partnership on yet another fine multi-pitch adventure climb!
By BenJamN
From: Washington State
Nov 5, 2009

Pictures? sounds fun!
By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Nov 7, 2009

Sorry, BenJamN, no pictures. The only camera in our group was over on Warpath that day! We only had Bob Kerry's topo to go by. With maybe a half hour study near the base, that was enough! But if someone has a photo of this side of Chaktar, I'd be happy to mark it with the route.

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