REI Community
Penitentiary Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cell Life T,TR 
Climb and Punishment T,TR 
Climbs and Misdemeanors TR 
County Lockup T 
Deception TR 
Jack the Ripper T,TR 
Jailbait T 
Life Sentence T,TR 
Minimum Security T,TR 
Possession T 
Rehabilitation T 
Repeat Offender T 
S&M / B&D T 
Speed is of the Essence T 
Sticky Zipper T 
Tax Evasion T 
Three Strikes T 

County Lockup 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 137
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jun 25, 2004

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The right arete of Penitentiary holds a route that protects pretty well with gear, just right of the climb Jailbait. Start up the right facing corner below the roof. Climb over the roof on the right side, then continue up the arete which has good edges and stopper placements. Rap from the same anchors as Jailbait.


Standard Rack.

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By Allen Sanderson
From: Oootah
Jul 16, 2012

This part description is odd to me "Start up the right facing corner below the roof. Climb over the roof on the right side." It sounds like one climbs the right facing corner that is below the roof which becomes part of Jail Bait then escapes right at the roof to the arête. Which is reasonable if one wants to avoid the face above the roof.

However, to gain the arête we started at the base of "Jail Bait" went up may be 10 feet to the right to the first small roof that is below the dirty right facing corner then traversed further right over to the arête. After that we climbed up the arête.

I should also note that one can start the arête from the base but the first 20 feet are a bit dirty cause of the tree next it and thus why we traversed in a bit higher.

Finally, if the FA party remains unknown and the route lacks a name. I would like to suggest "County Lockup" thus keeping with the prison theme.

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