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Hueco: V8- Font: 7B

Type:  Boulder, 20'
Original:  Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 835
Submitted By: BDalhaus on Oct 20, 2008

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Three desperate moves followed by a classic romp up technical jugs to a high topout. Stand start in the middle of the face with a crescent shaped crimp sidepull and poor feet and establish yourself on the wall with difficulty. Shoot out right to a slopey knob feature before making a hard match. Make another big move out right to a great jug, work your feet, and use a high left crimp to aid in sticking the lip. There is a hidden two-finger pocket at the lip if you need it. Try not to forget your footing and topout.


Left of Magnificent and right of Hairway on the tall boulder next to the log about a minute from the main trail. This face isn't visible from the trail. Downclimb down the gully on the right or circle around to the left by Hippie.


Pads & spotter

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By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Aug 3, 2014
rating: V8- 7B

Climbed this today in terrible conditions. Not a bad little climb. Definitely one of the more interesting lines in the Ridgeline area. A somewhat awkward start, but fairly easy when you figure out the right body positioning.

The handholds are good quality rock but the footholds are a bit fragile and that takes away from the quality of the climb a bit for me. Kind of hard to grade, for me, but v8ish sounds about right.
By BDalhaus
From: Bangor, ME
Sep 10, 2014

Glad someone finally got on this!
By Ian McAfee
From: Concord, NH
Aug 30, 2015

Got on this today, great line, and so close to the trail, I'm surprised these boulders don't get climbed more. Can't wait to get back on it in better conditions. Matching the middle hold seems to be the crux. I broke the right starting foot Christian used in his video, a lower left foothold with my right foot and starting switched worked out.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Aug 30, 2015
rating: V8- 7B

Yah, the feet are kind of fragile. And yes, the match is the crux. As for your question, it might be 'Assisted Living'??
By Ian McAfee
From: Concord, NH
Aug 30, 2015

Thanks dude! You were right as always.
By Tristan Baldwin
From: Amherst, NH
Dec 20, 2015

The quality of rock for feet is abysmal. For the starting moves, I would paste my feet, then wipe the gravel on my pants. There are no feet whatsoever for the first move, but you don't really need anything more than two smears. The match is definitely the crux, and while there are clear footholds that far right, they are shit too. I was matched on the flake and fell as my foot ripped off a 6"x6" flake. No equivalent foothold was left after the break, but a fair amount of ankle skin was. There had been two feet near there and now only one remains. It seems more or less permanent.

The garbage rock quality at foot level really detracts from the quality of the problem because the hand holds are all comfortable and the movements are fun. This climb will be different for every climber as each will induce there own erosion to the bottom half of this boulder.
By Troy Fauteux
From: Henniker NH
Dec 26, 2015
rating: V8- 7B

All the hand holds are good but there are no footholds whatsoever for the starting move. I had to get creative and smear a micro divot...
By Ian McAfee
From: Concord, NH
Jun 5, 2017

This problem has definitely cleaned up since 2015 and the (invisible) footholds for the first move aren't going anywhere, the broken foot out right seems to be stable and is quite good. Don't let previous comments deter you!

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