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Countdown To Ecstasy 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Mike Argueso
Season: Morning Shade Until 2pm
Page Views: 228
Submitted By: Hendrixson on Sep 28, 2014

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climb down and right with pretty rock

Closed to climbing March 15 - June 30 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Holding nothing back, Countdown To Ecstasy starts with powerful edging and crimping. This sequence demands technique and forces interesting movement. A sinker pocket and deep undercling provide a respite at the third bolt. Surmount two bulges separated by seemingly blank face. Finish by following a near horizontal crack to the anchor.

Countdown To Ecstasy has long been a personal mystery. The route ascends interesting features but sees little traffic in comparison to its neighbors. A rumor swirled that the line was plagued by poor rock. My intrigue and completest tendencies finally got the better of me.

The rock quality is good but not great. The bottom shows signs of features lost, the upper headwall is a bit grainy, and the final horizontal crack has an easily avoidable hold that flexes. Clipping the second bolt, while likely safe, held my attention as the easiest clipping stance comes after the sequence in near groundfall territory. With those caveats the movement and features on this line make it worth exploring.

Location 

Countdown To Ecstasy is the rightmost line on the front face of The Murray Wall. Said another way it is the furthest west route on the northwest face. Two routes start downhill, past a tree, from the others: Cracked Rhythm on the left; and Countdown to Ecstasy on the right.

Protection 

6 bolts to 2 bolts, which are not anchor bolts. Since lowering directly through these bolts may damage the rope, leaver biners were added September 2014. While I have not personally confirmed, it may be possible to walk off as well.


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