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Count Floyd Show 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Porter Jarrard, M. Strevels, 1992
Page Views: 2,238
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (76)
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Me working to the second clip on Count Floyd Show....


This climb has more technical movement but more rest than its lesser-rated neighbor. Which is actually harder depends on your skill and endurance. Climb the wandering line just left of the arete near "Creature Feature" past a series of cruxes and rests to a bolted anchor. It has been debated at length which climb is actually harder...


Approach Phantasia Wall from the road via the main trail (right) and go slightly left at the split to the obvious low roof with bolts and a heavily plated, low-angle face above. This is Creature Feature. Just left of there, around the arete, are two sport routes. The nearer, to the right is Count Floyd Show (11b) and the further, to the left, is Creep Show (10d).


A handful of draws to get to the bolted anchors up top.

Photos of Count Floyd Show Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris working out the sequence on Count Floyd Show...
Chris working out the sequence on Count Floyd Show...
Rock Climbing Photo: Count Floyd Show, climber can be seen at the ancho...
BETA PHOTO: Count Floyd Show, climber can be seen at the ancho...

Comments on Count Floyd Show Add Comment
Show which comments
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Nov 23, 2009

i think count floyd show is rated harder than creep show because the move over the roof/lip on count floyd show is harder than any single move on creep show. also, you get a standing no hands rest on creep show, but not on count floyd show. that's not to say there aren't no hands rests on count floyd show....

regardless of the differences, both climbs are a blast.

btw, one other reason count floyd show might be considered harder is that unlike creep show it doesn't have fixed draws.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 23, 2009

Some points in question for sure, but Creep show didn't have fixed draws in the early 90's when we were all debating which was actually harder...
I think it had more to do with endurance Vs a single techinical move. Porter didn't probably notice the endurance factor, as it didn't show up on his Radar.
By saxfiend
From: Decatur, GA
May 17, 2010

There's no fixed draws on either Creep Show or Count Floyd. My partner onsighted Creep Show for his warmup climb on our last day (inspiring!), and he hung his own draws.
By Steve Bachmeier
From: Lander, WY
Jun 27, 2016

I thought it felt easier than the 10d to the left, but I wouldn't necessarily say it's grade should be lowered. It's just less thuggy. The no hands rest saved my ass before the slopey topout on a wicked humid day!

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