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Count Dooku 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Dustin Stephens, Will Sweeney in 2014
Page Views: 228
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on May 4, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

A long route that starts out slabby and gets progressively steeper. Lots of thin edging, and technical moves.

Follow a faint lie-back groove to a horizontal break below a blank looking face. Crimp and wander up the wall, heading towards the obvious flake at 1/3 height. Follow this flake to some good holds then do a very reachy and thin crux to gain jugs on the steeper headwall. Fun iron protrusions lead to classic RRG pockets which end at a distinctive triangle feature sticking out of the wall. "Mantle" past this using some small edges, and cruise to the chains.

The rock down low is still cleaning up so tread lightly.

Location 

Just right of Grippy Green.

Protection 

Glue in bolts and a two bolt anchor that has carabiners.


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By Kiryl Bushwackacowski
Oct 31, 2016

Brilliant route with all kinds of climbing. Perfectly bolted. The low crux is a pretty absurd proposition, but very well protected so you can focus on the task at hand.

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