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Left Book
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beelzebub T 
Cottontail T 
Dog, The T 
Hiatus T 
Left Out (aka Lost Crack) T 
Manifest Destiny T 
Well Hung T 
Whale Rider T 
White Whale T 
Zingando T 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 4,441
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Apr 13, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: Looking down the classic dihedral on the 2nd pitch...

Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>


Cottontail is located on the Left Book between Manifest Destiny and Zingando. Like Zingando, it's an excellent choice when the more popular routes like Hiatus and White Whale are occupied. The start is up and to the left of the base of the wall, under two, left-facing, left-angling dihedrals.

P1. Face climb a short distance to the bottom dihedral (Manifest Destiny climbs above the upper dihedral) and then continue up and left to a spacious belay in what Gillett calls a left-facing "curious mouth-shaped belay stance."

P2. By far the best pitch. Continue up and left to join a long, sustained, right-facing dihedral. There are actually a couple of finger to hand sized cracks for protection. The dihedral bulges to the right and then cuts back to the left. Be careful with protection here, as a bad placement will result in terrible rope drag higher up (where you don't want it). Continue up the sustained dihedral and belay at the top on Paperback Ledge. Walk off to the left.

From the second belay, you can climb a short, easy pitch to the right that leads up to the Hiatus/White Whale finish. Good, sustained climb.


Standard rack - stoppers and cams.

Photos of Cottontail Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Erik Marr cleaning the 2nd pitch of Cottontail.
Erik Marr cleaning the 2nd pitch of Cottontail.

Comments on Cottontail Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeff Gustafson
Jul 29, 2004

Slippery when wet.
By craggin carl
Aug 2, 2005
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Another intricate slab jubilee of fascinating movements. Truly a rare precious peach of a climb. This was our last climb today, was kind of tired, so I thought it was a bit harder, 5.7c/d.
By Sarge
Nov 1, 2008

Great route. Best done while simul-climbing. The dihedral on the last pitch is great.
By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
May 17, 2009

2nd pitch is classic. This is a good alternative to the more popular routes here if the lines are too long (always).
By SteveF
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 14, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I had a problem with the rope getting stuck in the top corner of the first dihedral section of the P2 when belaying my second, even though I placed gear fairly far above and below it, AND I flicked the rope over the top corner of the dihedral. I'd like to know how others avoid this. Actually placing a piece directly in the corner to prevent the rope from getting jammed may have helped.

The climbing felt about as difficult and maybe slightly harder than White Whale.

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