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Cote d'Azure 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Steve Burgerella, 1995
Page Views: 6,081
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Oct 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Walker on the send!! WOOHOO!!


Just right of Coral Sea, Cote d'Azure climbs the center of the steep wall on the right side of the raised ledge. Boulder up and clip the first two bolts and then come back down to the ledge to rest.

The crux of the climb involves weird moves up a steep wall. A V8ish boulder problem brings you to the lip. The draw at the lip is hard to clip; many people forego it on redpoint. Rock over onto a mini hanging slab and rest up for the headwall. From here, amazing 5.12a climbing continues to the anchors. This upper part of Cote d'Azure has been called the best 5.12 at Rumney. Unfortunately for some, this climbing is guarded by the tough, bouldery climbing on the lower wall.

It is somewhat understandable, though not forgivable, that a rock was glued on in order to "enhance" one of the crux holds. This made the route a more crowd pleasing 5.12d. However, the climb was quickly returned to its natural state and now rarely gets sent.
(Edit - The enhancement was a random rock glued on to a flat section, not on another hold. It was done by the original bolter, and not by Steve, who later freed the route without using it. The rock was then removed. As more people climb the grade, it is being climbed more frequently now.)



Photos of Cote d'Azure Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: jump otey jump!
jump otey jump!
Rock Climbing Photo: Another one of walker.
Another one of walker.
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve on Côte D' Azure
Steve on Côte D' Azure
Rock Climbing Photo: i love this exposure! otey grabbing the top with t...
i love this exposure! otey grabbing the top with t...
Rock Climbing Photo: otey, last few moves
otey, last few moves
Rock Climbing Photo: wow... cool...
wow... cool...
Rock Climbing Photo: otey eating rope and looking bad ass!
otey eating rope and looking bad ass!
Rock Climbing Photo: otey pulling over the roof...
otey pulling over the roof...
Rock Climbing Photo: otey sticking the crux grab
otey sticking the crux grab
Rock Climbing Photo: otey, workin it...
otey, workin it...

Comments on Cote d'Azure Add Comment
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By M Sprague
From: New England
Jun 29, 2010

This route deserves a lot more ascents. It has great moves that tax your brains and brawn. I think it spanks a lot of people though. It may be closer to 13c now than originally, as I think a hold changed some. Many strong climbers find it stiff. As with many Rumney climbs, finely tuned beta makes a difference.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 31, 2011

one of the best lines on the cliff!!! the upper half is amazing!!!
By James Otey
From: NH
Nov 3, 2011
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

This and Thin Man are the best routes I've climbed at Rumney
By FelixBM
Jun 12, 2012

J'ai cassé la reglette clée à la troisième clip. La difficulté du parcours en a prix un coups. Il y a eu une ascention en moulinette, mais pas à que je sache en libre.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Mar 11, 2013

Has this been climbed free since the latest hold change?
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 11, 2013

To the best of my knowledge Zeb Engberg sent it after the hold broke and it was thought to be about 13d...
it has since been restored, the broken hold replaced and i hear it came out perfectly and you cant see anything was done...
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Oct 25, 2013
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

For A while I was thinking this was a step up from other .13b's I had done. The boulder problem at the start is just HARD, with a couple of moves you could easily fall off of. After getting on it today in crisp to almost too cold of conditions, the boulder problem felt significantly easier because of one friction dependent hold. I could still see it getting the b/ c grade, but not as convinced. Moral of the story, crisp temps can help a lot on this one!

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