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Cosmic Trigger 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Greg Martin
Season: Cold temps
Page Views: 1,301
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 16, 2009

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Bad pic of a great route. Cosmic Trigger climbs t...

Description 

With so many RRG routes over-hyped & over-star-ed in the guidebook, its rare to find a route that is better than expected, but this diamond in the rough delivers the goods. Surely one of the best 12a's at the Red, this route climbs a beautiful swath of sculpted, slightly overhanging orange sandstone, with interesting, continuous movement and a technical crux just below the top.

Stick clip the first bolt and make insecure moves between large slopers. More slopers lead out right to a tough move around the second bolt. Head back left to the orange streak where the holds get more positive and the fun begins. Charge up the steep wall on good holds to an obvious blank section just below the top. Cerebral moves between incut crimps and positive pockets leads to the slopey lip. Move right, mantle it out & clip the chains.

Location 

On the far right end of The Inner Santum is a steep wall capped by a big roof. This route climbs the overhanging orange streak, immediately right of a black streak, on the left end of this wall.

Protection 

~8 Bolts, 2BA. Stick clip highly recommended.


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