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Cosmic Cringe 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 28', Grade VI
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: First Lead : Bill Russell 1979
Season: any
Page Views: 478
Submitted By: Steve Sangdahl on Nov 8, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Description 

This is a great route....with a bad landing.Rumor has it that Bill Pre-clipped the fixed pin at the start. I was there that day and I am sure he did not,ultimatly who gives a fuk. The direct finish is way fun and pumpy(first led by Rich Bechler 1981)

Location 

The north face of Leaning Tower right off the trail and directly above some ugly looking talus.

Protection 

Ther use to be a fixed pin after the lunge,then its stoppers and small cams. the start is unprotected or...is it?


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By Anonymous
Apr 13, 2005

I recall Scott Stuart saying that he did the first TR of this when he was very young. He'd been climbing every thing his buddies put him on and never falling. They had enough of that and sandbagged him onto this wall that had never been climbed. He did climb it, on TR, with no falls, bottom to top. Turns out that the main reason he wasn't falling was that he was scared our of his wits. Not sure what he took his first fall on.from DL Alum1983. ABQ
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Nov 22, 2011

[Reaction to this route being posted twice:] Interesting how 8 1/2 years has added two stars and dropped the rating by a letter!
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Nov 22, 2011

oops, didnt notice this was already in data base. reason I posted it was i had just talked to old Swilliam on the phone and it reminded me of this route. I will stick with the latest description as a salute to Russell(1st self proclaimed prez of dlfa...and a damn good one at that) I will also stick with the rating.
Chris tregg can ya remove the other cosmic cringe.peace and f-nes steve s
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Nov 23, 2011

I couldn't resist the opportunity to give you a hard time.

This route was popular for a couple of years in the early 90s - it often had a TR set up. Nowadays its pretty quiet.
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 30, 2013

I do remember this being more of a staple in the early nineties as well. Worth the lead.
By Sam Russell Aspinwall
Nov 15, 2016

This is Bill Russell's nephew. I attempted cosmic cringe last weekend, but every hold after the lunge had moss in it... I'm going again in a few days and I plan to clean the rout out so it'll be climbable. It's sad that this epic climb hasn't been climbed past the lunge in at least a year. (The few handholds before lunge to had chalk on them)
By Sam Russell Aspinwall
Nov 17, 2016

Thanks for the ad

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