||Ice, Alpine, 4 pitches, 600', Grade III
|Original: ||WI4 Steep Snow [details]|
|FA: ||Mark Houston and Kathy Cosley, April 1982|
|Page Views: ||1,251|
|Submitted By: ||Jeff Hebert on Mar 3, 2015|
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BETA PHOTO: Cosley-Houston on the right
The route starts just above the bergschrund with a low-angle ice ramp up to the base of the crux pillar. The pillar is short and steep, with about 30 feet of ice before hitting a steep snow gully trending up and right. The ramp heads directly to another pitch of ice, this one shorter at about 20 feet and more of a curtain. It's possible to climb this in many different ways. Above the curtain, follow the gully system up and right to a tighter exit gully which brings you to the top.
Descend toward the second peak of Colfax toward Mount Baker. Skirt this on the South side, just below the summit, then weave your way down to the Baker-Colfax saddle.
On the northwest face of Colfax, head up and right of the Polish Route, across the bergschund, and begin the route below the obvious crux pillar.
Screws, pins, and pickets. A light rock rack has been recommended, but the rock is kitty litter.
Leading crux Cosley-Houston
Pitches one and two on Cosley-Houston on Colfax
Leading the second curtain