Type: | Ice, Snow, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Mark Houston and Kathy Cosley, April 1982 |
Page Views: | 6,605 total · 59/month |
Shared By: | Jeff Hebert on Mar 2, 2015 · Updates |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July
Details
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.
Description
The route starts just above the bergschrund with a low-angle ice ramp up to the base of the crux pillar. The pillar is short and steep, with about 30 feet of ice before hitting a steep snow gully trending up and right. The ramp heads directly to another pitch of ice, this one shorter at about 20 feet and more of a curtain. It's possible to climb this in many different ways. Above the curtain, follow the gully system up and right to a tighter exit gully which brings you to the top.
Descend toward the second peak of Colfax toward Mount Baker. Skirt this on the South side, just below the summit, then weave your way down to the Baker-Colfax saddle.
Descend toward the second peak of Colfax toward Mount Baker. Skirt this on the South side, just below the summit, then weave your way down to the Baker-Colfax saddle.
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