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Coronet T 
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Coronet 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 600', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Royal Robbins
Season: Late Spring to Early Fall
Page Views: 115
Submitted By: bricepollock on Jan 4, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: View of start from side-approach.

Description 

P1, 5.8
Starts with an easy crack and then head right for a balancing 5.8 slab traverse with bolt in the middle for protection. Bolted anchor at end of traverse.

I took a lead fall on the bolt and had the joy of being flipped upside down and hitting my helmet on a pendulum.

P2, 5.5
Up the face past two old bolts to setup a gear anchor in a corner roof.

P3, 5.5
Move up the corner/ roofs and then straight up to a big ledge. Gear anchor on ledge. Bolted anchors on left likely too far for 60m. Plus that rope drag.

P4, 5.7
Starts out knoby and then they disappear for a runout 5.7 slab finish a bolted anchor.

Scramble to the top and walk off NW towards Dreamscape or West down to the return trail.

Location 

Locate the big depression in the middle of the queen's throne that leads to a flat roof. Coronet starts in the crack just to the right of this.

Protection 

Standard Single Rack to 3.5"


Photos of Coronet Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Friction finish at top of P4
BETA PHOTO: Friction finish at top of P4
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up P4 from ledge. Follower in gear anchor...
BETA PHOTO: Starting up P4 from ledge. Follower in gear anchor...
Rock Climbing Photo: View looking down from P2 gear anchor
BETA PHOTO: View looking down from P2 gear anchor
Rock Climbing Photo: Follower on the friction traverse on P1
BETA PHOTO: Follower on the friction traverse on P1
Rock Climbing Photo: First pitch from start
BETA PHOTO: First pitch from start

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