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YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Peter Croft
Page Views: 885
Submitted By: peachy spohn on Jan 12, 2014

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Begin up the first pitch of the slightly loose Cornercopia, 10a, and head to the looming, rounded buttress above. A large, grainy and rounded flake will help you gain access to the blunt arête (figure out for yourself if you enter lower or higher!). Once on the arête slap through good edges, doing very fun dynamic moves to good holds and cool pockets that always appear when you need them most! Shake out...

The top houses the crux and goes through a blocky section of intricate moves, especially when compared to the wild section below. A long lock off to a hidden crimp is the business. Head leftwards to the anchors via a cool gaston flake and then a few lock offs to those two happily dangling draw. Have fun!


The stellar looking rounded buttress above Cornercopia (left of the dihedral).


Bolts. 100m rope works good! There are midway anchors you can lower to.

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By peachy spohn
May 28, 2015

I was on this on 05/27/2015 and broke off the large flake just before the big pocket on the arête. I lowered off and redpointed it without the flake. Definitely harder...and involves a long lock off to a left hand gaston crimp before hitting the jug pocket. Still, very fun!
By Max McKinnon
From: San Jose, CA
May 31, 2016

I got on this thinking it was the 11b from the guidebook. 4 or so bolts up, I realized it probably wasn't 11b. Made it to the gaston plus rough arete slap. Attempted the dyno to shelf a couple times, but couldn't do it. Couldn't find much for feet on that dyno it was nuts!! :D Glad it turned out to be 13a/b not 11b haha.

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