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YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Dale Goddard
Page Views: 6,082
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Apr 4, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Ted Lanzano, the Flatiron's send master, making it...

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  • Description 

    Just left of Discipline, Cornucopia starts at the top a huge detached block and follows a line of bolts up a gorgeous lichen streaked wall. The climbing on this route is brilliantly thin, technical, and continuous. Unfortunately, most of the bolts are very hard to reach until the draws are hanging. For this reason, I recommend that you stick clip the first bolt, since a fall before you reach the first bolt could result in serious or fatal injuries. After establishing on the wall (which isn't easy), an insecure V4 slab takes you to a pod at mid-height( some people place a #3 Camalot here). Once you have recovered, launch into the crimpy V6 crux, and continue up the difficult seam using pebbles, pockets and edges until you reach the top of the wall. A 60 meter rope will easily get you down. This route is well worth the hike.


    Quickdraws and a stick clip. There are fixed anchors.

    Photos of Cornucopia Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Finishing it up.
    Finishing it up.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Flash attempt on a cold day.
    Flash attempt on a cold day.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Reaching far for the tiny crimp, mid-crux.
    Reaching far for the tiny crimp, mid-crux.

    Comments on Cornucopia Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Ben Scott
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Mar 10, 2009

    There's no way a #3 fits in that flared little pod between bolt 1 and 2.

    Definitely a BD Camalot #2 or #2.5 should work better.
    Maybe a #3 Friend is what the description is calling for?

    Absolutely mandatory in my opinion as well.
    The second bolt is only clipped while underclinging left hand in the pod at full extension.
    If you mess that up you deck on the flake at the start, then tumble to the base of the wall.

    Just about pooped myself figuring this out on lead....sketchy.
    By Alex Shainman
    Dec 9, 2010

    As for the namesake "horn-like" pod, oh yeah a #3 Camalot is way too big! I would recommend bringing both a #2.5 and a #3 Friend; decide which fits best to your liking.

    Thanks for replacing those bolts, guys!!!
    By doug rouse
    From: Denver, CO.
    Aug 20, 2013

    A #2 Camalot fits nicely in the aforementioned pod. I would further state that this has got to have one of the best belay/hangout spots around!
    By Bobbi Bensman
    Jul 9, 2015

    This is such a beautiful route. I did this quite a few years ago, and I made it on the cover of a Patagonia mag. The colors of the rock is superb. Absolutely worth the hike, and be sure to do its 5.12 neighbor.

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