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Three O'clock Rock
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20th Century Clock S 
Big Tree 2000 T 
Big Tree, The T 
Bushy Galore T 
Charlie Chan's Number One Suspect S 
Cornucopia  T 
Ginsu T 
Magic Bus T 
Masters of the Universe S 
Penny Lane T 
Pucker Up S 
Quin Konehead Pre-Memorial Route (aka The Kone), The T 
Rash, The T 
Road to Nowhere T 
Silent Running T 
Till Broad Daylight T 
Total Soul T 
Under the Bored Walk S 

Cornucopia  

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: 
Season: When dry
Page Views: 176
Submitted By: Nick Drake on Sep 8, 2015

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Low down on P1

Description 

Cornucopia is a 3 pitch route which starts on a ~30m flake just right of the kone. Enjoyable movement, good gear, and nice stances would make P1 an excellent early trad lead. Pitch 2 and 3 are bolted slab.

Note that this route doesn't dry as fast as the routes to climbers left.

Excellent topo on Matt Perkin's site:
mattsea.com/Darr/pdf/cornucopi...

P1 enjoyable flake that goes at about 5.5 to 5.6. Can rap from new fixe chains at P1 with a single 60m, you'll be near the end, use knots.

P2. 5.8-9 slab. This pitch is the reason for the PG13, after the second bolt it's a bit run out as shown in topo. *I didn't continue past the second bolt as it was damp and my testicular fortitude did not exceed my concern for potential cheese grating.*

P3. 5.9, angle increases with interesting knobs.

Can make double rope rappel using til broad daylight anchors.

Location 

See photo, only flake like this in the area. If you haven't been to three o'clock rock yet the easiest way to find it would be to take the lower climbers trail left to the "great arch", then bump back right on narrow path to the start of the kone. Flake will be obvious, only feature like this in the area.

Protection 

Mostly hand size gear, wide section by tree will take a slightly tipped out BD #3. Slings for bolts on p2 and p3. Double rope for p2 and p3.


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