REI Community
Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern Slabs)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Branscum-Martin Route S 
Chouinard Special T,S 
Claustrophobia Crack T 
Claustrophobia Direct Start T,TR 
Cornflakes T,TR 
Dirty Dishes S 
Fine Line S 
Friction Slab T 
Initiation Crack T 
Just for Kicks S 
Lieback, The T 
Sight Unseen S 
Top Out T 


YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a X

Type:  Trad, TR, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a X [details]
FA: Matta & McGee (Nov. 1974)
Page Views: 925
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Dec 5, 2010

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Romain Wacziarg enjoys a top-roped run up Cornflak...


Sustained slab climbing on quality rock.

The route starts in a shallow, left-facing corner. From the top of the corner, the route heads straight up for 30 feet past one bolt, to a second. From the second bolt, the route traverses left for about 6 feet and then climbs edges and smears past two more bolts to a bolted belay.


The route starts about 50 feet left of a large pine tree which leans against the wall that is left of Chouinard Special and Lieback. The route starts 20 feet left of the obvious bolts which mark the start of Just for Kicks.


Contributors Note: I have not led this route.

It appears as if the opening dihedral would only accept marginal placements using micro-sized gear. The 4 lead bolts protect more than 120 feet of climbing. The route receives an X-rating in the Moser/Vernon/Paul guidebook.

It is possible to top-rope this route using two ropes by first leading both pitches of Lieback and then rappelling down and left to the top of Cornflakes/Just for Kicks.

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