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Lower Peanuts
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Your Basic Lieback T 

Cornered, straight up variation 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Cornered (5.9-), going left at flake undercling:Jim Erickson
Page Views: 2,845
Submitted By: Matt Bauman on Apr 24, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (48)
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Marc, finishing strong. Great finger locks and gea...

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  • Description 

    Climb Your Basic Lieback (excellent short 5.6) and traverse to bolt belay ....climb up past rotten section into steepening dihedral corner that gets steep fingers up to a large flake.

    The original route, Cornered or Dihedral, goes left at the undercling on the flake.....straight up variation goes up the steep but fun finger crack right of the flake in the corner (solid 5.9) to a big ramp/ledge with 2 bolt belay up and right.

    Rappel 80 feet to bolt belay and 100 feet from there to ground...could easily be done as 1 long and fun pitch.


    Smaller cams....double bolt anchor for both anchors.

    Photos of Cornered, straight up variation Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Marc, enjoying the steepness of Cornered.
    Marc, enjoying the steepness of Cornered.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Marc, getting into the "business' of the pitc...
    Marc, getting into the "business' of the pitc...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The regular route (see Dihedral), goes left at the...
    The regular route (see Dihedral), goes left at the...

    Comments on Cornered, straight up variation Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Matt Bauman
    Jan 1, 2001

    This straight up version FA was Richard Rossiter in 1980, the original route Cornered or Dihedral (as it is renamed in the new guide book) goes left at large flake at top of dihedral, FA Erickson, solo 1978......I almost wussed out and went left at the beautiful undercling flake but the steep crack up the right side of the flake sucked me in....FUN.
    By Ben Mottinger
    Founding Father
    Jan 1, 2001

    Nice climb. Another way of descending: from the sloping ledge at the top, boulder up to the next ledge, then walk off toward the gully between Upper and Lower Peanuts.
    By Leo Paik
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Dec 6, 2001

    Nice route straight up or undercling left. Nice entertainment just right on Forbidden Planet 11a.
    By Ped
    Jul 26, 2006

    I went straight up the Cornered variation and found it to be great fun. I think this is solid 5.9 as well. It protects well and makes a great finish to Your Basic Lieback.
    By Kat A
    From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
    May 18, 2008

    Felt like solid Eldo 5.9 to me. Very nice thin crack, with good pro available.
    By Eric Haye
    From: Boulder
    Aug 22, 2011

    Do the 5.9 section. Very fun and protects great.
    By James Hicks
    From: Grand Junction, CO
    Aug 18, 2014

    I managed to get a red C3 stuck right around the cruxy bit. I tried to get it out on rappel, but it thwarted all of my efforts. If someone gets it out, I would be willing to meet up and trade some beers for it, but it is in there quite solidly. So, in the mean time, there is a solid piece of gear that you clip as you pull over the flake/roof!
    By Connor Newman
    From: Reno, NV
    Sep 22, 2014
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    Just an FYI, after topping out this route, you can rap back to the base of Your Basic Lieback (which my partner and I used to get to this one) with a 70m. This is much quicker than either topping out and descending as for Star Wars, or doing 2 raps back to the base of the wall as is shown in the Levin guide. Also, sorry James, but the C3 was gone already.

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