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Cornered Rats 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Tod Anderson, 1998?
Page Views: 2,468
Submitted By: richard magill on Dec 18, 2001

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Eric on the clean granite of the Red Wall. The big...

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Great, airy line with a spectacular position and exciting moves. This lines goes out onto a cool planar face and then over an intimidating-looking roof. When I did this route, it gave me a sense that there was an ass-kicking waiting to happen. Only after I reached the anchors did I sit back and tell myself it really was 11b.

This is the left most route on the upper tier of the Red Wall.


11-12 bolts.

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By Ken Leiden
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 31, 2008

This was my first trip to Devil's Head, so perhaps there are gems like this all over this area, but this is possibly the best granite sport climb I have done. Richard's description is right on.
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Aug 22, 2009

Great route, but the anchor placements on this and Man Chowder drive me nuts! Why do we need to climb 10ft of 5.7 at the top over a rounded bulge and destroy our ropes. I recommend belaying from above unless you have some extra cash in next year's rope fund.
By Mike Lane
From: Centennial, CO
Aug 22, 2009

Just read your comments about the anchors. The reason they end up where they do is that setting the anchors there tends to be a pretty involved process; usually with some insecure trad placements, back tension on the rope, the thrill of drilling with a wicked pendulum if you cut loose....
Unlike the route clips, we don't get much of a chance to refine the anchors before committing. Most of the time we're guessing that the anchors are in line over the objective. Then, once the anchors are set, away goes the top-rigging, and with it the ability to reset the anchors. I don't think any of the Head crew would object to anyone with initiative refining problems like this. Just as long as they are competent bolters and everyone agrees. In the meantime, start rapping more instead of lowering and that'll help minimize the Head effect on your ropes. But regardless, DH is harder on your ropes than most places.
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Aug 25, 2009

Thanks Mike, I totally understand the strain of placing those first bolts, and I do consistently rap from anchors at both DH and T-Ridge. I would love to help spruce up the crag (if possible), with the FA's permission. On this route there will always be drag from the roof, but moving the anchor down 6-8ft will greatly reduce some of that drag.
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Aug 26, 2009


By all means feel free to drop the anchor a bit lower. I've been trying to fix up some of the old stuff here and there and could really use the help. Please post whatever you fix so that I can keep the info up to date. Glad to hear you have liked some of the routes, it makes all the work worthwhile!
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Sep 27, 2010

The anchor was lowered 25' to be just above the lip of the roof on 9/25/2010. This was the highest point that the rope would drop cleanly from the anchor to the ledge and is at the end of the difficulties on the pitch. Stainless Fixe' rings and quick links on the previous protection bolt were installed. The rope will still run around the left edge of the roof, but the amount of drag and rope wear should be far less than before.
By slim
Oct 9, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Stellar route. The flakes at the start are way spooky, so we climbed a bit to the left. Probably similar difficulty, but you have a trade-off of solid rock for worse fall potential. Rich Magill's comment about the upper corner having sort of an impending doom feel to it is well noted. The rock and the climbing are kind of like a strange mix of a desert corner, Eldo corner, and Devil's Head features. Really cool, I highly recommend it.

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