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YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Todd Graham, Marty Lewis & Bruce Lella, May 1995
Page Views: 766
Submitted By: Pushkar S on Nov 4, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Two pitch route with the first pitch rated at 5.10a and the second pitch rated at 5.11b.

The first pitch climbs next to a crack and is about 90 feet or so. The second pitch is a steep dihedral and is beautiful. The crux is getting out of a small overhanging section after clipping the third bolt. The climb gets easier up top, where good stemming is required.

Note: The second pitch enters the corner directly above the first pitch anchors. The route does not climb the overhanging arete to the left of the corner.


The route starts about 10-15 feet left of Child of light.


First bolt is a little high but the route is well protected after that, all the way to the anchors of the second pitch. The route takes around 8-9 draws on each pitch. Both anchors have three chains with hooks.

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By T.J. Esposito
From: San Diego, CA
Apr 28, 2014

~16 bolts to do as one pitch, two possible first pitch starts. Right one is 10a/b and pretty crumbly. Crux is tricky to figure out but you can camp out below it and figure out what to do. Higher up it rewards flexibility with fun stemming and a sweet, super-exposed, no-hands rest.
By Austin Archer
From: Bishop, Ca.
Nov 19, 2015

80 meter rope just reaches the ground.
By Todd Graham
From: Sierra Eastside, CA
Jan 5, 2016

I put this route up.
By Jeff Scheuerell
Jan 5, 2016

Thanks Todd, it's one of my favorite routes in the Gorge. I just consider the first 30+' as just a semi scary shitty approach, after that it's so fun.
By Todd Graham
From: Sierra Eastside, CA
Apr 13, 2016

Jeff -- agreed on the approach. Always hoping it will clean up with time but ya never know.

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