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Earthday and Munge Domes
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Choss Whisperer S 
Corner the Market, Lose the Planet T 
Every Day is Earth Day S 
Have a Scabulous Day T 
Have a Slabulous Day S 
Probably Go, Natural Pro T 
Seamingly Cool T 

Corner the Market, Lose the Planet 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Raleigh Collins, Keith Brueckner - Late 90's
Page Views: 216
Submitted By: Todd Townsend on Mar 15, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Bolt is clipped, and now ready to slay the upper c...

Description 

Don't be fooled by the 3-star rating in the guidebook, this thing is some "grade A" choss wrangling.

Boulder up past 1 bolt on decomposing flakes to access what appears from the ground to be a nice handcrack in a corner. Make the discovery that it's in fact a thin, shallow, flaring, grainy slot and then commit to crumbling edges on the face to the right. Whine, whimper, curse, and pray your way up the corner to where you can make a couple of grainy friction moves out right to a thank-god bolt. One more committing face move gets you to lower-angled terrain and the anchor.

It's probably best for your belayer to stand a little off to the side to avoid the inevitable rain of grain that will be coming off, and in the event that you blow it and rip all of your marginal gear, someone will still be alive to go get the coroner.

Kind of "fun" in a sick and twisted way, this might eventually clean up with another 100 ascents or so.

Location 

Located down a corridor immediately east of Earthday Dome, walk past the route "Greenpeace and Greenbacks" and just keep going. Look on the right for a dihedral with 1 bolt at the bottom. Lower or rappel off of fixed cold shuts.

Protection 

2 Bolts, Gear to 2 inches. Fixed anchor at top.


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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 12, 2016

Agreed, Marty Lewis did not do this route. What a complete pile but being in the area wanted to see for ourselves. The first bolt seems completely unnecessary as once you wrangle up the decomposing rock and get established you can place pro. A notable is that you can stretch across and clip the bolt from the ground which may/may not be of interest. The rock is of horrible quality low. Gaining some altitude the rock quality improves and so does the climbing. Takes gear well but the rock is toothy, so jamming isn't really ideal. Climbs more like a face climb using the crack for pro and occasional features. Low angle slab which is kinda runout to the closed shut anchors.

Not a gem. Seriously only worth doing if you're into choss and ticking routes that nobody else does.
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Nov 14, 2016

Fantastically crappy start leads to some so so face climbing using the crack for pro. Slab move at the end rounds out a chossy extravaganza. A must do if you are high on datura. I'll go .814 stars.

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