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Corner Pocket 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Alan Bartlett, Steve Plunkett, Erret Allen (Feb, 87)
Page Views: 127
Submitted By: Bryan G on Aug 26, 2011

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The corner on "Corner Pocket".

Portal Road Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route climbs the prominent left-facing corner on the main wall.

Pitch 1: Start on a left facing flake/corner and climb up to a bolt. At the bolt make a difficult (10c) traverse left, across the slab, to reach the left end of the flake. This is an easy offwidth which leads to a stance below the corner. Make some committing 5.7 moves across a slab to reach the corner. The corner is 10b and awkward. When the corner ends, traverse left past a bolt and then up to a 2 bolt anchor.

This first pitch is very difficult to climb without lots of rope drag. Twin ropes would be useful.

A variation exists that bypasses the 10c crux. At the first bolt head up and right on some scary looking 5.9 slab. You can also climb on the outside of the 10b corner up juggy knobs. This route is called Blackballed (5.9) and links back up with Corner Pocket at the end of the second pitch.

Pitch 2: From the belay climb up to a bolt and then traverse hard right (10a) to another bolt. Then up to the top of the cliff.

Walk right to a 3rd class gully to descend. Alternatively, rap to the ground with 2 ropes from a bolted anchor near the edge of the cliff (at the top of Blue Balls).

Protection 

Pro to 3"


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