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A dirty, ugly start is the only thing that takes away from this quality, unique climb. Climbing in a corner, reminiscent of a trad ascent, adds to the feel that this is not your usual sport climb. It's got a little extra adventure, with the start, the unique middle and the engaging finish; making some people love this route and to have others hate it.
Start by climbing up dirty, chossy terrain past 2 or 3 bolts to gain a ledge. Carefully pull on to the ledge to gain the cleaner face above. Careful and technical climbing leads past the first bolt on the face as the ledge looms below. Eventually, work right into the left-leaning crack where your trad skills come in to play. After 20-25 feet of climbing in the crack, move right around an arete and on to the face. The crux is a difficult, big move from good holds to a hard hold. This is a hard onsight, in my opinion. The grade will quickly ease after sticking the move, but be prepared for engaging climbing on less-than vertical terrain with well-spaced bolts and sharp rock. It feels a bit like desperate slab climbing at time as many of the holds feel less than positive. If you're on the redpoint burn and you stuck the big move, you'll find a way to hang on through this 5.11 face climbing to the anchors.
All in all, this is a great route and mostly a one-move wonder with a little adventure thrown in for good measure.
Uphill from Kor's Corner
and just left of Urban Cowboy
, look for a chossy start on dirty rock that ends at a ledge before climbing the face and left-angling crack above.
12 bolts and anchor.
BETA PHOTO: Corner Pocket at the Puoux, Glenwood Canyon.