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Starts on a boulder, right of Fat Hand. Boulder problem involving a dynamic move up and right on tiny holds leads past the first bolt to easier climbing. This section can be aided by pulling on the bolt, making the route 11b A0.
The dihedral above is the 11 crux, with easier climbing above to the anchors.
This is the farthest right route on the wall just right of the Lavender Eye wall.
9 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.
By Adam Peters
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Oct 23, 2009
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
This route is super good for the upper climbing, the bottom crux boulder problem doesn't necessarily have to involve dynamic moves, but it is a little harder to do via the static/thin/ridiculous method. If V6 thin crimping is your thing, then do the boulder problem, but if you really enjoy amazing 5.11 jug hauling, then pull past it and do the rest off the route!