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Core Blimey  

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jeremy Freeman, Greg Smith
Page Views: 1,058
Submitted By: old5ten on Sep 24, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: The start of 'Core Blimey' - the first crux (5.9) ...

Description 

P1-start up into the pod and transition (5.9) into the short, splitter, thin hands crack, which gets easier a bit higher up. Traverse right at the (or just before the) orange dike. This section has poor pro, but is relatively low key. Gear anchor at the base (sandy ledge) of the pinnacle.

P2-head up the short, easy crack between pinnacle and wall to the top of the pinnacle, then face climb a short section up to a bolt and short diagonal section (5.9). Continue up the wide flare with a perfect finger crack in the back (5.8). Traverse diagonal up and right to some bushes for 10' and belay (gear/natural).

P3-step diagonally right across a small bush and gain a perfect, low angle, easy hand crack (SWEET!). Go up and traverse slightly left via a lieback and gain a short (easy) fat crack. At the top of the fat section continue for a few feet, but then traverse up and right out onto the slab (look for the first bolt, watch rope drag). Pass a horizontal and two more bolts to the top of the pillar (good stance and bolted belay). It is possible to look down onto Chips from the middle of the slab section on this pitch (around the 2nd bolt) and the whole pitch presents incredible fun climbing.

This is the end of the route and it is possible to rap 'Chips Off The Ol' Block'. However, the route can be extended to climb the 4th pitch of 'Chips Off The Ol' Block' as shown on the topo. This is a pretty natural continuation.

P4(Chips)-from the P3 anchor climb up past two large holes into a shallow, right trending corner, just left of a large bush. Poor pro, some decking potential. Gain and surmount the small lip (5.9)and lieback/face climb up a shallow left facing corner/flake to a thin horizontal. Continue up on easy face (thin pro), pass another bush on the left and continue up a perfect thin hands crack to a horizontal. The short face section above is unprotected, but several choices in the 5.6-5.8 range exist. Two bolt anchor.

'Core Blimey' is an excellent route with a variety of climbing, including some stellar, straight-in, thin hand cracks (that are unfortunately short). If this route was in the Valley it would be as popular as 'Central Pillar of Frenzy' or any of the other classics in that general grade range.

I would not call this a good beginner's route because it is solid 5.9, has a stout fat flare/finger crack on P2, and sports poor/no pro in several sections, mainly the traverse on P1 and if the continuation on P4 (Chips) is climbed as shown on the topo pic.

Location 

'Core Blimey' is the right of two cracks about 50' left of 'Chips Off The Ol' Block'. Follow the approach for Chips, then scramble around a small boulder to the left. Traverse further left on sandy ledges and slightly up to the striking hand crack that has a pod just below.

Protection 

Standard rack (doubles) to 2", one or two 3-3.5" pieces optional to protect a short fat section on P3.


Photos of Core Blimey Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 'Core Blimey' P3 slab.  Note the arete on the left...
'Core Blimey' P3 slab. Note the arete on the left...
Rock Climbing Photo: 'Core Blimey' (3p) with 4th pitch continuation of ...
BETA PHOTO: 'Core Blimey' (3p) with 4th pitch continuation of ...

Comments on Core Blimey Add Comment
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By Morgan Nutting
From: Bishop, CA
May 31, 2016

This was a really fun route, good variety of climbing. I thought pitch 2 could've used another bolt off the pillar, but it's safe enough. Pitch 3 was pimp!
By Dave Livingston
From: BISHOP
Jun 17, 2016

At first blush, I wasn't keen on this route. It's kinda of dirty, it has friable rock and you have to climb (more like tunnel) through multiple bushes while on the thing. But that's part of the appeal. It's got a wild alpine feel, but is only 30 minutes from the road. To boot, the actually climbing is tough and scrappy, which, with the route's condition makes it a memorable outing. Take a break from the mustache wall and get some adventure.

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