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Corax crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Lee Hansche and Torie Kidd
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 253
Submitted By: lee hansche on Aug 19, 2016

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Devon on the lower section.

Description 

This is a sweet hidden crack climb that protects really well. The opening uninterrupted finger crack had me giddy on the first lead. Once we cleaned it out it was just splitter jamming for 20+ feet. Super fun, I hope the few folks who bother with rumney trad head up there and check it out.

This climb had 2 distinct sections. First a really pretty left facing corner split with a perfect finger crack. Then a slightly more varied second half with some hand jams, fingers and face moves.

We belayed from the birch tree at the top and rappeled off but you could easily traverse to the bolted anchor 8 feet to the right if you prefer.

I removed a lot of loose rock, the section I climbed is clean and solid now but do take care as there could be a flake or two near by that could peel off.

Location 

Follow the fixed line in the gully on the left. Do not use the line down the middle of the death gully (that needs to be removed). At the top of that rope move left up the gully past a couple of bolted routes. Anchor to a good sized tree just down and right of the obvious pretty corner.

Protection 

Finger size to #1 camalot. Anchor sling if you belay from the tree.


Photos of Corax crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Devon in the upper section.
Devon in the upper section.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ok, last one for now. Torie following the first as...
Ok, last one for now. Torie following the first as...
Rock Climbing Photo: Torie sinking another perfect finger lock Toward t...
Torie sinking another perfect finger lock Toward t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Toward the top of the route
Toward the top of the route
Rock Climbing Photo: Torie half way up
Torie half way up

Comments on Corax crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 20, 2016

It was a really nice treat to discover a new true crack climb at Rumney! And one at a grade that most people can enjoy too. I do hope that some of you Rumney folks get out there to check it out. I know that bolts make people more likely to get on stuff out there but this one would be a tragedy to bolt. It's perfect just the way it is.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 24, 2017

I do not hold it against them for having a typo in the latest guidebook. So many routes to keep track of it's bound to happen, but to be clear "Corax" is from the Latin name for raven. We named the route Corax Crack because of a near by raven nest and raven crap we had to clean off of the climb. "Lorax Crack" as it is listed in the new guide implies that a Lorax crapped all over the route which I admit would be way cooler hahaha.
By Troy S
From: Somerville, MA
4 days ago

The fixed line that is setup to approach this route is worn to just a few thin threads, tread lightly.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
4 days ago

I assume you are referring to the line running straight down the gully. I would not recommend ascending that thing. Last year I set up ropes on the left side of the gully that makes it a reasonable hike to get up to this area.

If anyone get's a chance before I do please take down and pack out the old line that is worn to hell. I just updated the description on the route to be more clear.

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