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April Showers T 
Back to the Future (AKA JAP) T 
Blue Stink, The T 
Bragg-Hatch T 
Climb and Punishment T 
Comedy In Three Acts T 
Coprophagia T 
Falled on Account of Strain T 
Frustration Syndrome T 
Golden Showers T 
Hooky T 
Kligfield's Follies T 
Last Frontier T 
Moondance T 
Pressure Drop T 
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Simple Suff T 
Stand, The T 
Sticky Gate T 
Sticky Gate with Direct finish T 
Sundance T 
Tangled Up and Blue T 
Techno-Suff TR 
That Thing T 
Wasp T 
Wet Dream T 

Coprophagia 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: FFA John Stannard, Henry Barber 1973 (Variation 1 - Jordan Mills 1996)
Page Views: 304
Submitted By: Daniel Affsprung on Apr 25, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: The somewhat contrived start to Coprophagia. Guide...

Description 

An overlooked route that's worth doing, even though it's become neglected and dirty. Interesting mantles and a bit of nice finger-crack.

Start between The Stand and Wasp where a small right-leaning corner meets a small overhang. Climb straight up to good holds level with the overhang, see if you like the looks of the pins to your right, then move diagonally left to a good stance below another small overhang with a white splotch under it. Traverse right, meet the thin crack and climb it to easier terrain, continue up the second half of Wasp to the trees.

Variation 1 - Presumably goes straight into the thin crack where it begins, from the small overhang (5.12)

Protection 

Standard Gunks Rack

Tree anchor, same as Wasp. With a single 60m the tree to the right will leave you on the large mound to the right of Wasp, to walk off.


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