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YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

Type:  Sport, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
Page Views: 823
Submitted By: Peter Jackson on Nov 28, 2010  with updates from KateMonster

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Pocketed face with three bolts to chains. Immediately right of Basilisk.


3 bolts to chains

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By Donovan Corcoran
From: Oxford, OH
Jun 2, 2014

IIRC its 3 bolts to chains.
Also, I highly doubt its a 5.8-. The face is very pocketed and looks like it should have many good holds, but most the pockets are either too small or slope down inside making them difficult to use. My last trip down, myself and 2 other 5.10 climbers struggled with this one
By Peter Jackson
From: Rumney, NH
Jun 6, 2014

It's been almost 4 years since I was there, so my guess is I either remembered wrong, or a bolt was added. Updated.

I can't speak to the grade, though I'll say that if I thought it was mislabeled when I climbed it, I'd have noted that in the description. There was a piece of notebook paper that listed the routes and grades posted on a stick when the area was being developed: I just listed the grade that was on the paper.

Given how loose the blocks on that end of the wall were when the routes went in, it wouldn't surprise me if some key holds were lost and the grade bumped up in the past 4 years.

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