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YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bill Smith, Doug Grayden, mid-70s
Page Views: 1,348
Submitted By: saxfiend on Apr 29, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Decent exposure for a 40 foot route. The top out w...


Copperhead is short and off the beaten track (literally), but it's a worthy challenge. Like many routes at Sunset, it's a stiff one for the grade.

From the left end of the ledge, start at a dirty but easy sloping crack that moves up and left to a ledge. Move right to climb a short and tricky vertical crack -- it's well-protected, but too shallow for jams. After the crack, move up the face on sparse and reachy holds to finish with a mantel topout.


Starts at the left end of a ledge above the trail, about 5 minutes walk down from One-Ten; watch for steps leading to the scramble up to the ledge. Rap from the pine tree at the top.


Small to medium gear (nuts, cams, tricams). Sling trees at the top or build a gear anchor on the ledge to climber's right of the topout.

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By Nick Evans
Feb 16, 2012

Solid rock but very pebbly. Not the best.
By Andy Weinmann
From: Silver Spring, MD
Oct 13, 2015
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Better to rap from the anchors to climber's right atop the neighboring climb. Nothing larger than a #1 C4 needed.
By RandyLee
From: Los Angeles, CA
Aug 1, 2017

"I'm good at face climbing, this'll be easy" I says to myself, as someone regularly sport climbing high 5.10 on face and slab. Never have I been shut down so hard by a 5.7. On the plus side, it wasn't terribly run out if you're creative with gear placements.

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