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Copperhead Boulder
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Copperhead 

Hueco: V9 Font: 7C

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Original:  Hueco: V10 Font: 7C+ [details]
FA: Boone Speed
Page Views: 3,849
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jan 1, 2005

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Copperhead

  • UDOT will ticket cars parked on the south side of the canyon opposite the Secret Garden bouldering area. MORE INFO >>>
  • Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    The slightly overhanging copper colored face on your right as you walk into the Secret Garden. It's to the right of the Manly Arete and left of Lance's. The boulder is named for this problem. Start with a left sidepull and a right crimp. Do one hard move to a bad crimper then punch it to the bigger holds. The line is very obvious. I believe there is a sit start variation that goes around V13.

    Protection 

    Not very high


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    By skinny legs and all
    From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
    Dec 10, 2013

    Boone Speed first ascended this classic power bloc in fall/winter 1994 and originally graded it V11. Today it is considered "entry level" V10, even with the foothold polish. Please clean your boots before attempting this problem and any of the others on this boulder. Many of the adjacent climbs have been polished by tiny pieces of dirt and rock being rubbed into the footholds. This problem is probably the most tried V10 in the state of Utah, rivaled perhaps only by a few in Joe's Valley. It is certainly the most accessible.

    I believe Klem Loskot was the first to flash the problem during a one day visit to the Secret Garden in the early 2000's, the same day he absolutely demolished almost all of the hard problems in the area. On the same day he flashed Shingles (V9), Mr. Mom (V10) and Bully (V11/12). The only problem he missed the flash on was All Thumbs (V10), which he did in a couple of tries. Ben Moon is another famous climber to flash Copperhead, and he apparently did it with ease and making it look easier than people who had climbed it multiple times.

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