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Cooter Bug T 
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It's Good to be King T 

Cooter Bug 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 121
Submitted By: Russ Keane on Mar 26, 2017

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Description 

This climb skirts left of the big roof that sits above the "Good to be King" buttress. Clamber up the left corner of the "King" buttress. then start slicing left to get under the left side of the roof. You'll see a beautiful corner that will bring you up and around to the top of the roof structure.

This corner is awesome. It's got great positive finger locks, and is slightly steep. The grade stays 5.7 because of all the feet on the face to the left. Not scary.

Surmount the corner and stand tall on top of the roof structure, on a ledge with pro (enough to build an anchor). **The anchor about 20 feet above this point has been stripped.** The guide book thinks the anchor is there. It is not. Someone killed it. If you don't build an anchor at the top of the corner, you are screwed, because the face above this point is weird run out with no pro.

Cooter Bug is therefore: a) a two pitch climb, going up and finding hardware above - This is only a guess, as I used a bail biner on a bolt to get down; or b) the climb heads left to a rappel tree before you pull the best moves at the top of the corner, which means it's not even a climb really.

Not sure what to say, except that people ought to know the anchor is gone. It was pretty dicey downclimbing from the stipped bolts with only a manky TCU to protect me back to the ledge.

Location 

Walk around to the left side of the "Good to be King" buttress and look up at the left side of the roof that sits above the "Good to be King buttress. Climb up from there. The book says to start on a green licheny slab, but I would not recommend this. It was scary and had no pro, and was not 5.7. You can use the big wide corner of the King buttress, then slice over and put a piece or two of pro as you get up to the corner sequence.

Protection 

I used small and medium cams. The anchor I built at the top of the corner took a 2, 1, and .75.


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By Mike Reardon
Mar 26, 2017

Thanks for the lack of anchor update- must have been yanked in the last year. Updates of Rumbling Bald Rock Climbs are here : grounduppublishing.com/?p=851 I will add thelack of anchor. You can start this climb in either corner or on the green slab (takes RPs). Slab is scary regardless. If there is no anchor on this then the climbing above is 8X. Right hand corner is the start to a different climb but likely a more fun way to start ( see guidebook).
By Russ Keane
Mar 27, 2017

Cool thanks! I don't think the section above the stripped anchor is 5.8X but I'll leave that up to you. As for the slabs at the bottom, they might be quite harder than 5.7 because I tried climbing both and could not get up. (5.7 slab for me is not a problem.)

Anyway, people can use the other options, like you said, to gain the roof/corner feature. Should I edit the route description above?
By Mike Reardon
Mar 28, 2017

No need to edit at all- sounds like you found a fun way to link the two climbs! Thanks for the update on the stripped anchor.

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