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Coop du jour 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: DASampson,Geir,Marcy
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 681
Submitted By: David Arthur Sampson on Feb 4, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Two cruxes, both are protected. A bit sustained. And, a bit spicy near the top (the climb lets up considerably; A long fall is possible, but it my opinion the fall would be safe).


Immediately left (5 meters)of "Going Out of Chicken Sale". Currently the only bolted line on the feature.


Seven bolts, rap anchors.

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By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 4, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

Also see the overview photo to help locate this line.

This is a really fun line, and it is SPICY at the top (hence my PG13 rating).

Bolting this climb was a difficult task. David figured out the route and provided all the work and hardware, Marcy and I came along to help and to have fun. We almost didn't go because Marcy was sick. Record rainfall really messed up the road so the drive in was very rough. Also, the creek at the bottom of the canyon swelled so badly that it took us nearly two hours to cross. When we finally got to LDE, Marcy wasn't feeling well and needed all our extra layers to stay warm. Still, we all pushed on, David got the route done, redpointed it, and we hurriedly bailed and got some pizza. It was worth it, though, because the route really is neat!
By Marcy
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Feb 4, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13

Good work, David! Solid 5.10 as compared with other routes in the area. In my opinion, the route is PG13 with the potential for a very long fall higher up.
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Feb 7, 2010
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

A very fun line, David, thanks! Reminded me of Adios Larry with the thin holds and graceful moves needed for the crux -- an excellent addition to LDE.
By Mike Dudley
From: Vegas
Mar 21, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

David thanks so much! I found this to be amazing. The bolts were perfectly spaced and the climbing was out of this world. Thanks again David awesome route!
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 21, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13

EXCELLENT route! i think the bolts are spaced a bit far apart for someone who isn't really solid on 5.10 though. a spicy sport route for sure.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 25, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

Excellent onsight by Mike Dudley this past weekend - he was pumped before starting the runout but managed to find a rest, gather himself, and push through. Real nice work, Mike! David will be proud as he's a great onsight climber.
By David Arthur Sampson
Mar 29, 2010

Thanks to everybody that has commented on the route. I am psyched that you all like the route! Mike; good work on the on-sight!
By jason sartor
Nov 27, 2010

here here..... I agree with all other posts. Nothing new to add, aside from a personal thank you to the putter-uppers.
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Jan 7, 2013
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This is a really fun climb and won't feel "spicy" for climbing solidly at the grade (compared, for example to climbing "Eyes of the world" or "Batteries Not Included", or even "Adios Larry" in the Glitter Box). If nervous about the spacing, there are ample places for placing small-medium cams between bolts, though that will just pump you out further.

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